Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
We breakfasted under the highest peak of all, at the little Fish
Creek inn. Here the scenery resembled the landscapes of impressive
grandeur our grandmothers received for wedding presents, with crags and
waterfalls, jungles, mountains and valleys gloomily heaped together
in a three foot canvas. Our breakfast was a simple affair of stewed
fruit, oatmeal, fried ham, fried eggs, bacon, hot biscuits, coffee and
griddle cakes. Thus securely ballasted, our chance of being toppled
off a cliff’s edge was materially lessened. Now came the climax of the
drive,--the climb to Lookout Point.
Two thousand vertical feet of rock would seem a sufficient barrier to
turn humanity back into the fastnesses whence it came. But moccasined
feet had won to the summit, and motor cars with the power of many
cayuses now roar over the same trail, a tortuous mile upward to Lookout
Point. Whether this spot was named for its scenic beauty or for a
warning, matters not: the name fits. We looked our fill. I cannot
describe what we saw. Go and see it for yourself, even at the risk of
breaking a neck. The safety of one’s neck is always inversely as the
beauty of the view.
Miles on jagged miles of mountain tops lay below us. It was not long
before we became aware of the extreme unimportance of ourselves and our
tiny affairs. The mountains shouted to each other, “GOD IS!”
With a suggestion of Bunyan, we reached Superstition Mountain next, and
left it behind. Then the scenery, having had its last triumphant fling
of grandeur, settled down to levels of gray and brown. The world which
a moment since had stood on its head for joy tumbled flat, and became
content with mediocrity.
Five miles more, and the reason for Roosevelt Dam lay before our eyes.
Five miles of blistering country, so dry, as a guide said, that “when
you spit you can’t see where it lands”; a country burnt to a crisp
by withering sunshine so intense that shadows, sharp-edged as razor
blades, look vermilion purple. Only horned reptiles, poisonous and
thorny-backed, can exist here, and plants as ungracious, compelled
to hoard their modicum of moisture in iron-clad, spiny armament. And
then, a line of demarcation the width of a street, and the Water-God
has turned this colorless ache of heat to emerald green. Thwarted
cactus gives way to long rows of poplars and leopard-spotted eucalyptus
bordering blue canals. We saw a corner of Southern France where the
hills of Provençe edge the fertile plains of Avignon. We were in the
famous Salt River Valley, the boast of parched Arizona.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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