Although hitherto styled a sea-port, Mentone has little pretension to
that character. The few small craft that belong to it are, along with
the fishing-boats, drawn up high and dry at an open space adjoining the
beach. After being in a primitive way delivered of their cargoes—barrels
of wine, for instance, being lowered overboard and floated to dry
land—the vessels are tugged up the ascent to their resting-place by a
windlass, at which men, women, and children lend their assistance. Last
winter, the French government commenced to form a harbour with landing
quays; the first step taken being to lay down a tramway along the beach
for conveyance of blocks of stone from Cap Martin. The tramway was so
insufficiently executed that the greater part was washed away by the
storm on the night of the 21st of December. It was replaced on a better
footing, and the works were begun. Whether they will endure the
impetuous battering of the heavy rolling waves may be gravely doubted.
The spot selected adjoins the old martello tower, which remains
invulnerable on the ledge of rocks in front of that medieval old town of
which it was once the protector.
Possessing in some degree a resemblance to the steep and crowded lanes
of the older parts of Edinburgh, I made this ancient town a kind of
study. Originally walled for defence, it consists, as has been said, of
a dense cluster of tall tenements, rising pile above pile from the
sea-shore to the summit of one of those low hills which stand out in
advance of the higher mountains. From the modern street, forming part of
the thoroughfare of the Corniche, we ascend into this strange mass of
buildings by steep paved lanes, which turn and wind in different
directions, until we reach the top, where, on the site of the ancient
castle, is found the cemetery of the town, from which there is an
extensive prospect over sea and land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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