Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
I HAPPEN to have kept the billet of a Parisian cabman, on which I find
the number is 8973. I believe I have seen _voitures_ in Paris bearing a
number higher than 10,000. In all probability, however, there is not a
licensed carriage to represent each unit of this apparent grand total.
When, after many adventures and a long struggle, old age overtakes the
_voiture_, and a sudden jolt sends it to smash, a pious regard may
preserve the number to its shade; while the new vehicle, its successor,
may just be added on to the tail of the list. But be this as it may,
there is no lack of carriages of all sorts in all Continental towns.
* * * * *
Elegant private equipages are to be seen in Paris and other parts of
France. These are often jobbed by English people. At Nice the charge
for a carriage, horses, and man is £30 per month. But Nice is a
notoriously expensive place, and I doubt not that in other towns of
France the charge is greatly less. Dr. Johnson (p. 67) states that
carriages in Pau were to be had, with pair of horses and driver, at £10
to £12 per month. His book, however, was written in 1857, and possibly
the charge since that time has been raised.
But it is among the Italians, I think, that the desire appears more
manifested for a good turn–out. In such large towns as Genoa, Rome,
or Naples, one sees hundreds of beautiful carriages and fine horses.
In fact, it would appear that in Italy every woman aspiring to be
considered a lady must, at whatever sacrifice of other comforts,
drive her carriage and pair with liveried coachman and man–servant.
The Italians seem to consider that it is not _comme il faut_ for a
lady to be seen walking,—for which, indeed, the climate is not much
suited,—and they are rather surprised at observing English ladies going
so much about on their own feet. The public vehicles are also of so
inferior a description, that one can scarcely wonder at a resident lady
being ashamed to be seen in them. I fancy, too, that the expense is
not so great as with ourselves. Men–servants’ wages must certainly be
considerably less, and crops of hay are so abundant, while agricultural
labour is so miserably recompensed that the expense of feeding is, no
doubt, also much less than at home. Moreover, horse flesh would appear
to be greatly cheaper in Italy than with ourselves. At Rome I asked
the driver of the carriage in which we went to Tivoli what might be
the cost of such a pair of horses as he was driving. They were poor
hacks, although they went well. He said about 400 francs, or about £16.
I pointed to a handsome pair of horses standing in a private carriage
upon one of the streets of Rome, and asked him what they would cost. He
said from 1000 to 2000 francs, or from £40 to £80. If this information
can be relied on, horse flesh must be cheap enough in Italy. I am not
sufficiently skilled in the subject to say whether the breeds are equal
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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