With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908Matthews, Franklin
History
With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908
Matthews, Franklin
United States. Navy. Atlantic Fleet -- Cruise, 1907-1909
"It [Punta Arenas] belongs to Chile and was formerly a penal colony; but
one look at it is enough to convince the most incredulous that whoever
located it did not intend the convict's life to be a happy one. It lies
on a long spit that stretches out into the strait, and the English call
it Sandy Point, but a better name would be Cape Desolation. Convicts are
sent there no longer, but some of those who were sent thither when Chile
kept the seeds and harvests of her revolutions, still remain there.
There used to be a military guard there but that was withdrawn during
the war with Peru and all the prisoners who would consent to enter the
army got a ticket of leave. The Governor resides in what was once the
barracks and horses are kept in a stockade. Hunger, decay and dreariness
are inscribed upon everything--on the faces of the men as well as on the
houses they live in--and the people look as discouraging as the mud.
"They say it rains in Punta Arenas every day. That is a
mistake--sometimes it snows. Another misrepresentation is the published
announcement that ships passing the strait always touch there. Doubtless
they desire to, and it is one of the delusions of the owners that they
do; but as the wind never ceases except for a few hours at a time, and
the bay on which the place is located is shallow, it is only about once
a week or so that a boat can land, because of the violent surf.
"The town is interesting because it is the only settlement in Patagonia
and of course the only one in the strait. It is about 4,000 miles from
the southernmost town on the west coast of South America to the first
port on the eastern coast--a voyage which ordinarily requires fifteen
days; and as Punta Arenas is about the middle of the way it possesses
some attractions. Spread out in the mud are 250 houses, more or less,
which shelter from the ceaseless storms a community of 800 or 1,000
people, representing all sorts and conditions of men from the primeval
type to the pure Caucasian--convicts, traders, fugitives, wrecked
seamen, deserters from all the navies in the world, Chinamen, negroes,
Poles, Italians, Sandwich Islanders, wandering Jews and human driftwood
of every tongue and clime cast up by the sea and absorbed in a community
scarcely one of which would be willing to tell why he came there or
would stay if he could get away. It is said that in Punta Arenas an
interpreter for every language known to the modern world can be found,
but although the place belongs to Chile, English is most generally
spoken."
All that may have been true in those days, except about the rain, the
wind, the shallow harbor and the impossibility of landing in a boat more
than once a week and several other items.
Here is what Frank G. Carpenter said in 1900 in his book on South
America, and it is the most favorable of any of the books dealing with
Punta Arenas:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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