With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
I shall neither tax the reader’s patience nor trespass on my space by
relating the trivial incidents of a voyage that presented little of
interest to a travel-worn mind. It will be enough to say that the wind,
which was as fair as one could desire till we reached the Straits of
Messina, was bent afterwards on making another and an angrier sea. The
discomfort of the passengers, most of whom were Britains bound for
India, was betrayed by their seclusion from the open air. The nearer
we approached the East, the more kindly grew the elements, until,
on the seventh day, about seven o’clock in the morning, Port Said
hove in sight. An hour later I had packed my kit and was ready for a
hearty landing. Steaming slowly into the canal we passed the pier,
which was still in course of construction, saluted the statue of de
Lesseps, and raised a shout of surprise on counting not less than five
Russian warships before we had reached our moorings. Those guardians of
Russian prestige had come from Chinese waters, had remained five days
at Suez, and were now coaling at Port Said, where they had arrived on
the previous day. Not one single British man-of-war was to be seen. I
had my breakfast at eight, after which I bade farewell to the captain
and my travelling companions, going ashore in one of the boats that
surrounded our steamer.
Two trains start from Port Said to Suez every day, one in the forenoon
and one in the evening. The line as far as Ismailia is a narrow tramway
having a gauge of 2ft. 8in.; the cars are consequently both narrow
and uncomfortable, and take about three hours to do the journey. On
my bidding good-bye to the dragoman I had engaged, he assured me
that he was far too devout a Muslim to fleece so pious a pilgrim as
myself, and he would not accept a centime more than five francs for
the boat, the carriage, and his special services. It was from him that
I first heard of the outbreak of cholera in Arabia--a report that was
unfortunately confirmed at Suez, whither I journeyed in the discomfort
of a dust-storm and a hot easterly wind. We arrived at Ismailia at one
o’clock, or thereabouts, having left Port Said at a quarter to ten
o’clock. This place, when the canal was being cut, was the headquarters
of the workmen; but now it has sunk in importance, many of the
buildings having actually fallen in ruins. Some of the managers of the
company, however, are still living there, and the best houses in the
town are at their disposal. Employment is provided on the canal for
some hundred and twenty pilots, most of whom are Greeks and Frenchmen,
though a few Englishmen have been recently added to the staff. The
railway from Cairo to Suez, which belongs to the Egyptian Government,
passes through Ismailia and picks up the passengers for Suez who have
travelled so far by the Canal Company’s toy line. Henceforward the
journey was made in comfort, for the line, though a single one, is
a standard British gauge and the train provided with an excellent
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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