Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
In the early 1930s, the textile trade journals applauded the increasing
stress on styling as a means of encouraging the consumer to buy a new
suit rather than to use "last year's." Stylishness was introduced into
knitted suits through the use of a greater range of solid colors.
Parti-colored suits, with stripes and slashes of a second or even a
third color, were also featured (fig. 18). Knitting mills were pressed
to introduce novelty effects such as mesh, waffle motifs, and lace
patterns in knitted fabrics.
[Illustration: Figure 18. ONE-PIECE SWIMMING SUITS OF KNITTED WOOL,
1930. (_Courtesy of Cole of California._)]
The insistent emphasis on novelty encouraged the development of such
items as all-rubber swimming suits with embossed surfaces simulating
knitted textiles. Although this innovation was not successful, because
the suits were clammy and easily torn, rubber did find a definite use in
swimming suits with the introduction of Lastex--a yarn made with a core
of rubber wrapped by a fine thread of another fiber. The following
advertisement for swimming suits made with Lastex best explains why this
important innovation is still valued by the industry today:
There's no wrinkle, no bag, no sag, even under the most ruthless
sun! No other human device can even approximate that utter
freedom, that perfection of fit, at rest or in motion, that airy
but strictly legal sense of wearing nothing at all. There is no
substitute for this elastic yarn, which imparts lasting
elasticity to any fabric.[67]
[67] _Harper's Bazaar_ (June 1934), 68th year, no. 2660, p. 9.
Having exhausted the novelty effects of knitted swim suits, women in the
late 1930s began to respond eagerly to the wide range of decorative
possibilities found in woven fabrics. Cotton and the relatively new
man-made fibers such as Celanese acetate and Dupont rayon were used in
fabrics such as ginghams, chambrays, piques, and featherweight elastic
satins. To the pleasure of the fashion editors, who claimed to be
anxious for some relief from the nudity of the maillot, suits of woven
fabrics were made with flared skirts. These had knitted linings of
cotton, acetate, or wool which satisfied any taste as to warmth or
coolness on the beach. The belief was prevalent that a wool swimming
suit was needed for warmth. In the 1940s the two-piece, bare-midriff
suit with tight shorts or flared skirt was a popular and logical
development from the earlier suits with cut-out sections around the
midriff. The more extreme French bikini, however, was not adopted by
American women when it was first introduced in the 1940s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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