Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
One of the party, more sensitive than the rest, woke about one in the
morning and disturbed us by finding some four-inch spiders stringing
cobwebs from the end of his nose to his ear and down to one finger. He
was for the moment embarrassed enough to shout for joy and throw his
slippers somewhere. But except for this, and a few rats that now and
then tickled our toes, we slept well, and next morning before breakfast
we went down to the shallow river for a swim. After a jolly good bath,
a hearty breakfast, and a few preparations, our party of four, with
the two boys and two guides, started up a steep valley that wound in
among lofty mountains to the so-called Caves of Montalvan.
One of our guides was the principal of a village school, who held
sway over a group of little Indian girls under a big mango-tree,
and he shut up shop to join our expedition.
In about two hours and a half our caravan reached the narrower defile
that pierced two mountains which came down hobnobbing together like
a great gate, grand and picturesque. From a large, quiet pool just
beneath the gates, we climbed almost straight up the mouth of the
stalactite caves that run no one knows how far into the mountains,
starting at a point about two hundred feet above the river. The guides
made flare-torches of bamboos, and we entered the damp darkness,
bounded by white limestone walls from which hung beautiful stalactites
that glistened as the light struck them. In we went for a long way,
now crawling on hands and knees and now stumbling into large vaulted
chambers. Blind bats flew about and water trickled. It was ghostly,
uncanny, but interesting. It seemed as if we were going into the very
heart of the mountain, or were reading "King Solomon's Mines," and this
impression was further carried out when we came to a small subterranean
river that coursed down through a dark outlet and disappeared with
weird gurglings. Unpleasant but perhaps imaginary rumblings suggested
that a sudden earthquake might easily block our exit, and, retracing
our steps, we breathed more freely on coming to the first glimmer of
light. Once more in the air, we descended, took a good swim in the
pool, lunched, and lay around for an hour. After another bath later
on, we donned our sun-hats and trudged homeward over the long, rough
path. A good walk, a good supper, a little dancing and music by the
natives who occupied our house, and we went to sleep upon the floor.
Next morning, after another early bath in the river, our party started
to climb the mountain back of the town for a little experience in the
bush. The work was hard and warm, but at the top came the reward of a
superb view for a hundred miles around. Manila and the great plain,
the bay and mountains beyond, were glorious before us, and behind
the great mountain wilds that reached to the Pacific stretched off
and up in great overlapping slabs of heavy greenness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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