Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Owing to the outbreak of black plague or something else among the
Chinese in Hong Kong, the quarantine regulations here in Manila
will cause the steamer by which I was going to send the mail to miss
connections. It was at first reported there were three thousand deaths
in Hong Kong in six days, but I believe they have now taken off one
or two ciphers from that amount. At all events Manila seems to be
below the zone of this peculiar epidemic and is much better off at
this time of the year than Hong Kong, which swelters away in that
great unventilated scoop in the mountains.
The men of the big artillery-band that plays at the Luneta twice a
week have all been vaccinated lately, and are too broken up to blow
their trumpets. The people are objecting, because the infantry band
doesn't make nearly as good music, and only plays twice a week at
most. The third regimental band is still fighting the savage Moros
with trombones down at the south, although it is rumored they will soon
return, and so at present about all the music and fireworks we have are
derived from the thunder-storms that play around the sheet-iron roofs
as if they meant business. But in spite of the terrific cannonade of
sound and the blinding flashes of lightning nothing seems to get hit,
and the iron roofs may act as dispersers of the electric fluid even
though attracting it.
June 6th.
Several days ago, a number of us went up the railroad line to see
a "fiesta" at a little village called Obando. It was a religious
observance lasting three days, and pilgrims from many villages thought
it their duty to go there on foot. A great dingy old church with
buttressed walls yards thick, a large plaza shaded by big trees,
and beyond, on all sides, the native houses. Such a crowd I have
rarely seen. Everybody seemed to think it his duty to dance; and
men, women, old men and children, mothers with babies and papas
with kids, shouted, jumped around, danced, joggled each other,
and rumpussed about until they were blue in the face, dripping with
heat, and covered with dust. Then they would stop and another crowd
take up the play. As the circus proceeded the crowds increased;
the old church was packed with worshippers who brought candles, and,
receiving a blessing, spent an hour or so on the stone pavements in
positions of contrite humility. Around the walls of the church were
placed realistic paintings of the chromo order, representing hell
and the river Styx, and as the natives looked at portraits of devils
driving nails into the heads of the tormented, of sulphurous flames
that licked the cheeks of the wicked in this world, or serpents that
twined themselves into square knots around the chests of a dozen
unfortunates, and of countless horned demons who plucked out the
heartstrings of the condemned, they counted their beads with renewed
vigor and mumbled long prayers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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