Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
In Malate, where we now are, things are much civilized. We find we
miss the snakes in the roof, but we have running water in the house
and a shower-bath in the bath-room; two rooms on the first floor; a
parlor, two bed-rooms, dining-room, large hallway, kitchen, bath and
"boys'" rooms on the second floor; a small garden at the front and a
stable at the back, and all included in a rent of $15 a month. The
stable accommodates two ponies, and it is a jolly drive downtown
in the morning or home in the evening. The road leads all the way
along by the sea, Luneta, and Malecon Promenade, that runs under the
yawning mouths of the old muzzle-loaders in front of the grim walls
of the old city, between them and the beach. The salt-water bath in
the early morning is often very pleasant, though the temperature of
the liquid is somewhat too high to be exhilarating. Now and then some
of the Britons living in the neighborhood will issue a summons for
a sunrise swimming-party, and one of them will perhaps punctuate the
ceremonies by supplying a typical breakfast of fresh fish and boiled
rice, on the veranda of a house that perhaps overlooks the Bay. These
seaside houses are particularly cool and fresh now that the winds of
the southwest monsoon come blowing into the front windows directly
off the water, but later on, when typhoons become epidemic, it looks
as if we should have the wind in more than wholesale doses.
June 12th.
Although the San Francisco steamer does not sail for Hong Kong until
the 21st, it is necessary, on account of this quarantine business,
to post our letters in the Manila office to-day.
Two of our latest vessels have come in together and begun to take
in their cargoes of hemp for Boston. The captains are ruddy-faced
veterans who seem to have taken part in the Civil War. One of them,
who wears false teeth when he is ashore, and hails from New Hampshire,
is particularly fond of cooling off under our big punka. The other
may be of French descent, though he comes from Ireland, and looks
something like one of our distinguished Boston statesmen. They both
climb up the stairs to our counting-room daily, call our big clock a
"time destroyer" and so vie with each other in their efforts to handle
the truth carelessly that it is often a question who comes off victor
in these verbal contests. However, the skipper with the false ivories
generally fails to get the last word, for he often loses his suction
power by fast talking, and has to leave off to prevent his teeth
from slipping down his oesophagus. Once again the air in the office
assumes a nautical aroma, and we shall be well employed and well
talked to death. A whole parcel of American ships are now about due,
and the Bay will liven up again with the Stars and Stripes as it did
some two months ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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