The road down the dale passes Woodhall Park, and then, after going down
close to the Ure, it bears away again to the little village of Carperby.
It has a triangular green surrounded by white posts. At the east end
stands an old cross, dated 1674, and the ends of the arms are ornamented
with grotesque carved heads. The cottages have a neat and pleasant
appearance, and there is much less austerity about the place than one
sees higher up the dale. A branch road leads down to Aysgarth Station,
and just where the lane takes a sharp bend to the right a footpath goes
across a smooth meadow to the banks of the Ure. The rainfall of the last
few days, which showed itself at Mill Gill Force, at Hardraw Scar, and a
dozen other falls, has been sufficient to swell the main stream at
Wensleydale into a considerable flood, and behind the bushes that grow
thickly along the river-side we can hear the steady roar of the cascades
of Aysgarth. The waters have worn down the rocky bottom to such an
extent that in order to stand in full view of the splendid fall we must
make for a gap in the foliage, and scramble down some natural steps in
the wall of rock forming low cliffs along each side of the flood.
Although it is still September, the rocks are overhung with the most
brilliant autumn foliage. The morning sunlight coming across a dark
plantation of firs on the southern bank lights up the yellow and red
leaves, and turns the foaming waters into a brilliant white where they
are not under the shadow of the trees. The water comes over three
terraces of solid stone, and then sweeps across wide ledges in a
tempestuous sea of waves and froth, until there come other descents
which alter the course of parts of the stream, so that as we look across
the riotous flood we can
[Illustration: AYSGARTH FORCE
THE beautiful river Ure that flows through Wensleydale falls over a
series of rocky ledges close to the village of Aysgarth. The picture
shows the lower series of falls on the morning following a wet
night.]
see the waters flowing in many opposite directions. Lines of
cream-coloured foam spread out into chains of bubbles which join
together, and then, becoming detached, again float across the smooth
portions of each low terrace. Where the water is smooth and shaded by
the overhanging mass of trees it assumes a dark green-brown colour, and
shows up the chains and necklaces of sportive bubbles which the cascades
produce. I suppose it was because Leland did not see the other great
falls in Wensleydale that he omits any mention of High Force on the Tees
and Hardraw Scar, but yet mentions ‘where _Ure_ Ryver faullethe very
depe betwixt 2 scarry Rokks.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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