Besides these lower falls, we can see, if we go up the course of the
river towards Aysgarth, a single cascade called the Middle Force, and
from the bridge which spans the river with one great arch we have a
convenient place to watch the highest series of falls. But neither of
these have half the grandeur of the lowest of the series which is
illustrated here. There is a large mill by the bridge, and, ascending
the steep roadway that goes up to the village, we soon reach the pathway
to the church. Perhaps because Aysgarth Force is famous enough to
attract large crowds of sightseers on certain days throughout the
summer, the church is kept locked, and as we wish to see the splendid
Perpendicular screen, saved from the wreck of Jervaulx Abbey, we must
make our way to the Vicarage, and enter the church in the company of a
custodian who watches us with suspicious eyes, fearing, no doubt, that
if he looks away or waits in the churchyard we may feel anxious to leave
our initials on the reading-desk. Apart from the screen, the choir
stalls, and the other woodwork of the choir, there is very little
interest in the church owing to the rebuilding that has taken place, and
left few traces of antiquity beyond suggestions of Early English work in
the tower. There is a short-cut by some footpaths that brings us to
Aysgarth village, which seems altogether to disregard the church, for it
is separated from it by a distance of nearly half a mile. There is one
pleasant little street of old stone houses irregularly disposed, many of
them being quite picturesque, with mossy roofs and ancient chimneys.
This village, like Askrigg and Bainbridge, is ideally situated as a
centre for exploring a very considerable district. There is quite a
network of roads to the south, connecting the villages of Thoralby and
West Burton with Bishop Dale, and the main road through Wensleydale.
Thoralby is very old, and is beautifully situated under a steep
hillside. It has a green overlooked by little gray cottages, and lower
down there is a tall mill with curious windows built upon Bishop Dale
Beck. Close to this mill there nestles a long, low house of that
dignified type to be seen frequently in the North Riding, as well as in
the villages of Westmoreland. The huge chimney, occupying a large
proportion of one gable-end, is suggestive of much cosiness within, and
its many shoulders, by which it tapers towards the top, make it an
interesting feature of the house. The lower part of Bishop Dale is often
singularly beautiful in the evening. If we stop and lean over a gate, we
can see Stake Fell towering above us--an indistinct blue wall with a
sharply-broken edge. Above appears a pale-yellow sky, streaked with
orange-coloured clouds so thin as to look almost like smoke. The intense
silence is broken by the buzz of a swift-flying insect, and then when
that has gone other sounds seem to intensify the stillness. Suddenly a
shrill bellow from a cow echoes through the valley, a sheep-dog barks,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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