beautiful example of the pure Early English style. Inside there is a
good deal of transitional Norman work to be seen. The central tower was
built in this period, but now presents a most remarkable appearance,
owing to its partial reconstruction in Perpendicular times, the arch
that faces the nave having the southern pier higher than the Norman one,
and in the later style, so that the arch is lopsided. As a building in
which to study the growth of English Gothic architecture, I can scarcely
think it possible to find anything better, all the periods being very
clearly represented. The choir has much sumptuous carved woodwork, and
the misereres are full of quaint detail. In the library there is a
collection of very early printed books and other relics of the minster
that add very greatly to the interest of the place.
The monument to Hugh Ripley, who was the last Wakeman of Ripon and first
Mayor in 1604, is on the north side of the nave facing the entrance to
the crypt, popularly called ‘St. Wilfrid’s Needle.’ A rather difficult
flight of steps goes down to a narrow passage leading into a
cylindrically vaulted cell with niches in the walls. At the north-east
corner is the curious slit or ‘Needle’ that has been thought to have
been used for purposes of trial by ordeal, the innocent person being
able to squeeze through the narrow opening. In reality it is probably
nothing more than an arrangement for lighting two cells with one lamp.
The crypt is of such a plainly Roman type, and is so similar to the one
at Hexham, that it is generally accepted as dating from the early days
of Christianity in Yorkshire, and there can be little doubt that it is a
relic of Wilfrid’s church in those early times.
At a very convenient distance from Ripon, and
[Illustration: RIPON MINSTER FROM THE SOUTH
IN its outline Ripon suggests Westminster, although the west front with
its twin towers is Early English and not classic. Underneath the present
building is the Saxon crypt of Wilfrid’s church, dating from the seventh
century.]
approached by a pleasant lane, are the lovely glades of Studley Royal,
the noble park containing the ruins of Fountains Abbey. The surroundings
of the great Cistercian monastery are so magnificent, and the roofless
church is so impressively solemn, that, although the place is visited by
many thousands every year, yet, if you choose a day when the weather or
some other circumstances keep other people away, you might easily
imagine that you were visiting the park and ruins as a special
privilege, and not as one of the public who, through Lord Ripon’s
kindness, are allowed to come and go with very few restrictions beyond
the payment of a shilling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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