Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
In the Furzani quarter, eastward of and close to the salt bazar, stands
the Custom House. This is an Arab bourse, where millions of dollars
annually change hands under the foulest of sheds, a long, low mat-roof,
supported by two dozen rough tree-stems. From the sea it is conspicuous
as the centre of circulation, the heart from and to which twin streams
of blacks are ever ebbing and flowing, whilst the beach and the waters
opposite it are crowded with shore-boats, big and small. Inland, it is
backed by sacks and bales, baskets and packages, hillocks of hides, old
ship’s-tanks, piles of valuable woods, heaps of ivories, and a
heterogeneous mass of waifs and strays; there is also a rude lock-up,
for ware-housing the more valuable goods. A small adjacent square shows
an unfinished and dilapidated row of arches, the fragments of a new
Custom House. It was begun 26 or 27 years ago (1857), but Jayaram, the
benevolent and superstitious Hindu who farmed the customs it is said for
$150,000 per annum, had waxed fat under the matting, and was not sure
that he would thrive as much within stone and lime. This is a general
idea throughout the nearer East. The people are full of saws and
instances concerning the downfall of great men who have exposed
themselves to the shafts of misfortune by enlarging their gates or by
building for themselves two-storeyed abodes. But the hat it seems has
lately got the better of the turban, and there will be a handsome new
building, half paid by the Prince and half by his farmer of Customs.
An open space now leads us to the finest building in the city, the
palace of the late Sayyid, which we visit in a future chapter. I may
remark that it is the workhouse style, though hardly so ignoble as that
of H. Hellenic Majesty; but at Zanzibar the windows are far higher up,
and the jail-like aspect is far more pronounced. Beyond it commences the
east-end, and here lives my kind friend M. Cochet, Consul de France. He
came, expecting to find civilization, whist in the evening, ladies’
society, and the pianoforte: he had been hoaxed in Paris about Colonel
Hamerten’s daughters. He is thoroughly disgusted. Even the Consular
residence is the meanest of its kind. No wonder that M. Le Capitaine
Guillain was ‘froissé dans son amour-propre national’ when he entered
it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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