Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
In my day foreigners visited the prison to see its curio, a poor devil
cateran who had beaten the death-drum whilst his headman was torturing
M. Maizan. An Arab expedition sent into the interior returned with this
wretch, declaring him to be the murderer in chief, and for two years he
lay chained in front of the French Consulate. Since 1847 he was heavily
ironed to a gun, under a mat-shed, where he could neither stand up nor
lie down. The fellow looked fat and well, but he died before our return
from the interior in 1859.
Below the eastern bastion of the ‘Gurayza’ is the most characteristic
spot in Zanzibar city, the Salt Market, so called from the heaps of
dingy saline sand offered for sale by the Maskati Arabs and the
Mekranis. Being near the Custom House, it is always thronged, and like
the bazars of Cairo and Damascus it gives an exaggerated idea of the
population. There are besides this three other ‘Suk.’ The Suk Muhogo, or
Manioc market, to the south of the city, supplies the local staff of
life. It is the sweet variety of Jatropha, called in the Brazil Aypim,
or Macacheira, and known to us as white cassava: it will not make wood-
meal, called κατ’ ἔξοχην, farinha, the flour. The poisonous Manioc
(Jatropha Manihot) must be soaked in water, or rasped, squeezed, and
toasted, to expel its deleterious juice, which the Brazilian ‘Indians,’
and the people of the Antilles, convert by boiling into sugar, vinegar,
and cassareep for ‘pepper-pot’—I heard of this ‘black cassava’ in inner
East Africa. The Suk Muhogo sells, besides the negro’s daily bread,
cloth and cotton, grain and paddy, vegetables, and other provisions. The
shops are the usual holes in the wall, raised a foot above the street,
and the owners sit or squat, writing upon a knee by way of desk, with
the slow, absorbing reed-pen and the clotted clammy fluid called ink.
Behind, and hard by, is the fish-market, which is tolerably supplied
between 4 and 6 p.m.—in the morning you buy the remnants of the last
day. Further eastward, in the Melindini quarter, is the Suk Melindi,
where the butchers expose their vendibles. As in most hot countries, the
best articles are here sold early, at least before 7 a.m. A scarcity of
meat is by no means rare at Zanzibar, and sometimes it has lasted four
or five months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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