Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
about his person are spare cartridges in reed cases. His sabre is of the
Persian form; his dagger is straighter and handier than that of the
Arab; and altogether his tools, like his demeanour, are those of a
disciplined, or rather of a disciplinable, man.
The wildest and most picturesque figures are the half-breeds from the
western shores of the Persian Gulf—light brown, meagre Ishmaels and
Orsons, who look like bundles of fibre bound up in highly-dried human
skin. Their unkempt elf-locks fall in mighty masses over unclean,
saffron-stained shirts, which suggest the ‘night-gown’ of other days,
and these are apparently the only articles of wear. Their straight,
heavy swords hang ever ready by a strap passing over the left shoulder;
their right hands rest lovingly upon the dagger-hafts, and their small
round targes of boiled hippopotamus hide—one of the ‘industries’ of
Zanzibar—apparently await immediate use. Leaning on their long
matchlocks, they stand cross-legged, with the left foot planted to the
right of the right, or vice versâ, and they prowl about like beasts of
prey, as they are, eyeing the peaceful, busy crowd with a greedy cut-
throat stare, or with the suspicious, side-long glance of a cat o’
mountain.
These barbarian ‘Gulf Arabs’ differ singularly from the muscular porters
of Hazramaut, in whose Semitic blood there is a palpable African
mixture. They hobble along in pairs, like the Hammals of Constantinople,
carrying huge bales of goods and packs of hides suspended from a pole,
ever chaunting the same monotonous grunt-song, and kicking out of the
way the humped cows that are munching fruit and vegetables under the
shadow of their worshippers, the Banyans. Add half a dozen pale-skinned
‘Khojahs,’ tricky-faced men with evil eyes, treacherous smiles, fit for
the descendants of the ‘Assassins,’ straight, silky beards, forked after
the fashion of ancient Rustam, and armed with Chinese umbrellas.
Complete the group by throwing in a European—how ghastly appears his
blanched face, and how frightful his tight garb!—stalking down the
streets in the worst of tempers, and using his stick upon the mangy
‘pariah dogs’ and the naked shoulders of the ‘niggers’ that obstruct
him. At times the Arabs, when their toes or heels are trampled upon,
will turn and fiercely finger their daggers; but a fear which is by no
means personal prevents their going further.
Such is the aristocracy of the land. As in all servile societies, every
white man (i.e. non-negro) is his white neighbour’s equal; whilst the
highest black man (i.e. servile) ranks below the lowest pale-face.
Far more novel to us is the slave population, male and female. What
first strikes every stranger is the scrupulous politeness and the
ceremonious earnestness of greetings when friends meet. The idea of
standing in the broiling sun to dialogue as follows is not a little
remarkable:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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