The next day the municipality of Madrid celebrated a royal bull-fight
on a scale of magnificence rarely approached. The great Plaza Mayor of
Madrid, 340 feet square, was surrounded by stagings, and every one of
the hundreds of balconies of the high houses overlooking the plaza was
hung with crimson silk and gold, and filled with noblemen and ladies
whose names were as splendid as the clothes, of which Solo y Aguilar[4]
spares us no detail. The royal balcony was erected on the first floor
of the municipal bakery (still standing), {90} and must have been a
mass of crimson and cloth of gold, with its hangings, its canopies, its
curtains, and its balustrades. Every council and board, and under
Olivares they were infinite, had its special tribune. Nobles,
officials, officers, and foreign representatives, all of whose fine
garb the literary quarter-master details for us until his description
produces but a vague impression of sumptuous stuffs without end,
smothered in bullion, arrived in procession to occupy their places as
spectators or actors in the glittering show. The English visitors were
accommodated in a special stand occupying the opening of the Street of
Bitterness (Calle de Amargura), which gave rise to much satirical
comment. When all was ready, and around the vast plaza a packed mass
of bedizened humanity had assembled, the royal coaches entered and
drove around the arena to the central entrance of the Queen's balcony
before the bakehouse. Here Isabel alighted, dressed, we are told, like
the Infanta, who accompanied her, in brown silk embroidered with gold,
and covered with gems, the plumes of their jaunty toques being white
and brown, sprinkled with diamonds. With them came the two Infantes,
Carlos, in black velvet and gold, with diamond chains and buttons, and
the boy Cardinal Infante Fernando, in the purple of his ecclesiastical
rank. Behind them came scores of ladies, and then officers of the
Guards, and finally a "great company of Spanish and English gentlemen,
courtiers, grandees, and attendants."