In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
At the end of the third day we heard the welcome roar of water, and
not long after halted on the bank of the Hávita River. A naked negro
came from the far side in answer to our calls, and ferried us across
the stream in a huge dugout canoe. There we found a settlement of half
a dozen bamboo huts filled with lazy negroes clothed in scanty attire.
The place is called El Puente. About one hundred yards below the group
of hovels, the Hávita is joined by the Rio Ingara. The water of both
streams is swift, cool, and of a bluish-gray color. Each of the streams
is about seventy-five yards wide just above the junction.
After crossing another ridge which required two days’ time, we reached
Juntas de Tamaná, on the south bank of the Hávita, a stone’s throw
above the point where this stream empties into the Tamaná, and but four
hundred feet above sea-level. Excepting only the little clearing in
which the fifteen dilapidated negro abodes stand, the entire country is
covered with a forest of tall trees; there is little undergrowth, but
many of the lower branches are covered with epiphytes, and long vines
or “forest ropes” dangle down from the interlocking tree-tops to the
very ground.
The negroes of Juntas are a miserable, sickly lot. They suffer from
lack of food, for the simple reason that they are too indolent to
grow in sufficient quantities the plantains, yuccas, and other plants
that thrive with a minimum of attention in such a favorable location.
Instead of making clearings and cultivating the fertile ground, they
prefer to lounge in their hammocks and take a chance at starving to
death. At irregular intervals, when the pinch of want is too great
to endure longer, the men paddle in canoes to their _fincas_ to cut
sugar-cane, gather plantains, and to pick palm-nuts in the forest. Upon
their return the family gathers about the food and eats until not a
vestige remains. So effectively do they attack the mound of provisions
that one might easily imagine a swarm of locusts had paid the region a
visit.
[Illustration: Native of Juntas de Tamaná with trail-haunting
blacksnake.]
[Illustration: The author with natives of Juntas de Tamaná.]