The Naples Riviera — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Naples Riviera
John Stuart Mill · en
But if the near presence of the burning mountain has tended to make the
inhabitants of its immediate zone the slaves of superstitious awe, the
disasters of generations have likewise imbued them with a spirit of
fatalism, that appears even stronger than their outward show of credulity.
Life is not so sweet nor so dear apparently to these children of the
South, but that they can afford to take their chance of disturbance or
death with a true philosophic calm. The fisher-folk and maccaroni workers
of Resina, Portici and the two Torres have, it is true, little to lose; a
small boat can at the last moment easily convey their families and slender
stock of household furniture to a place of temporary safety, and when the
danger is over-past, the same shallop can bring back the refugees and
their belongings. But with the husbandmen the case is different. Not only
has he to fear the actual stream of lava, which may or may not overwhelm
his house and farm in its slow inevitable course, but there are also the
showers of hot ashes and of scalding water that will frizzle up in a few
seconds every green blade and leaf upon his tiny domain, for which he pays
an enormous rental, sometimes as much as £12 sterling an acre. Yet the
_contadino_ takes his chances with a seraphic resignation that we do not
usually attribute to the southern temperament. After the eruption of 1872,
which covered the rich _Paduli_ with a deep coating of grey ashes, a young
peasant girl was heard deploring the loss of her carefully tended gourds
and melons; “_Oh come volimme fa? Addio, pummarole! addio, cucuzzielle!_”
whereupon an older woman, witnessing these useless tears, upbraided her
with the words: “Do not complain, child, lest worse befall you!” And
indeed the whole population of the _Paduli_, instead of lamenting over
their scorched and spoiled crops, were jubilant at the thought that the
havoc done was only partial, not irrevocable;—a few months of incessant
labour, said they, would bring back the holdings to their former state of
perfection. Yet a general opinion prevails among foreigners that the
Neapolitans are lazy, thriftless and helpless! They indeed rely to a
certain extent upon St Januarius to protect their crops from the efforts
of Nature, over which, they argue, the Saint is more likely to possess
control than his human applicants, but when once the fatal shower of ashes
has fallen, they do not expect “San Gennaro” to set their injured acres to
rights again, but with a rare patience turn to the task themselves. A more
industrious, and at the same time a more capable and practical race of
agriculturists than the tillers of the slopes of Vesuvius, it would be
hard to match. And thus in the sunshine of the south, yet ever under the
shadow of death and destruction, dwell many thousands of human beings, as
unconcerned as though Vesuvius were miles and miles away. Not unconscious,
but fully conscious of their doom, the victims of the Mountain toil and