I have often heard that Smyrna was noted for her pretty women, but I protest. I have seen nothing in this city that even approximates female beauty; and, if I see a pretty woman at all, her face is so completely covered and wrapped up in muslins and shawls that I can hardly tell whether she is a Greek or an Ethiopian. One of the seven Asiatic churches was located in this place. An old, old rock church still stands, and is pointed out as the one in which the Apostles used to preach. Near by the church is the tomb of Polycarp, who was a pupil of the Apostle John, and who was martyred A. D. 160, because he preached “the Gospel of Christ.” I have often read the touching account of Polycarp’s martyrdom. When asked to recant, he replied: “For eighty and six years have I served my God, and He has never forsaken me; and I can not now forsake Him.” The green boughs of a lone olive tree wave above his tomb, and I say to my friend: “Verily that tree is emblematic; its leaves are green, so is the memory of Polycarp still fresh in the mind of the Christian world. Above his tomb waves the olive branch of peace; and his sainted spirit, I believe, has gone on and up, and has long been in the full enjoyment of ‘that peace which the world knows not of.’” From Smyrna I go out into the interior of the country, which generally is neglected and barren. I believe, however, that if the Turkish government was struck by lightning, and some other power could come in, that would encourage and protect honest labor, these fertile valleys would again yield abundant harvests, and that peace and plenty would reign where discord and pinching poverty now hold sway. In my opinion, the Turkish government is a reproach to the civilization of the nineteenth century; and I think the Lord lets it stand simply to show the powers of earth how deep down into degradation and despair, into vice and vagrancy, a nation can sink, when it wanders away from and forgets God. “Sin is a reproach to any people.” On the way to Ephesus we meet several caravans, or trains of camels. These “ships of the desert” are all heavily laden, some with fruit, dried figs, dates, pomegranates, others with hand-made silks, Turkish rugs, Russian carpets, and other fancy goods. These caravans go back and forth between Smyrna and the far interior of the country. Camels are very obedient, and it is really amusing to see the humble creatures kneel down to receive their burdens.