A Baptist Abroad: Travels and Adventures of Europe and all Bible LandsWhittle, Walter Andrew
Religion
A Baptist Abroad: Travels and Adventures of Europe and all Bible Lands
Whittle, Walter Andrew
Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Night brings sweet rest to our tired bodies. Early in the morning,
bright rays of cheerful sunshine steal into our tents and drive sleep
away. We awake to find a bright, beautiful Sabbath day; and while with
our bodies it is to be a day of rest, we pray that with our souls it
may be a Sabbath day’s journey towards the New Jerusalem. Stillness
pervades the air. The solemn silence is broken only by the mournful
music of yonder restless sea. All the pilgrims except Johnson spend the
day reading and meditating. He occupies the time in writing to his—to
his—grandmother.
Late in the afternoon our attention is attracted by an unheard of
medley of sound. The noise that falls upon our ears is not more strange
than the sight that greets our eyes is curious. The dragoman tells us
not to be alarmed, and says it is only a wedding procession. Johnson is
glad of that. I stand it for his sake. The procession consists of about
a hundred persons, ninety-eight on foot and two riding grey horses,
all singing and dancing as they come. Ten or twelve of the footmen are
in front of the horses, while the others are behind. The leader of the
van is an Arab of unusual length and gracefulness, clad in the most
fantastic robes imaginable. In his two hands he holds a stick about
six feet long, wrapped around with gay and fancy colors. The leader is
coming backward, facing the advancing throng and keeps about ten paces
in front of them. He is first on one side of the road and then on the
other. He leaps; he bobs up and down: he bows and bends. At one moment
his face is almost on the ground, and the next his head is tossed
high in the air. The stick is waved like a magician’s wand. The man is
active as a cat and every movement is graceful. As he leads, the others
follow his example. They all hop and skip and bow and bend and rise and
fall together. Some sing while others blow or knock discordant sounds
out of their rude instruments of music.
Never before did Johnson behold a sight like this, nor until now did
such a babbling confusion ever strike his ears. The procession draws
close. The two persons on horseback are riding side by side. One is the
bride, decked in colors gay and wreathed with flowers many. There are
two tall men walking, one on either side of the horse, with their arms
locked around the bride; I suppose to keep her from falling. Johnson
touches me in the side and says: “Whittle, if that were my bride, I
wouldn’t let those fellows do that.” The bride’s face, according to the
custom of the country, is covered by a long, flowing veil. The man by
her side is not the groom. A man in this country will not condescend
to go after a woman—not even after his bride! Woman is an inferior
creature—she must humble herself and go to the man. The groom sends
his friend or his servant for her, and I understand she is always
willing to come. Johnson says it is very different in America. He says
one refused to go with him when he went after her in person.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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