A Baptist Abroad: Travels and Adventures of Europe and all Bible LandsWhittle, Walter Andrew
Religion
A Baptist Abroad: Travels and Adventures of Europe and all Bible Lands
Whittle, Walter Andrew
Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
IN giving a bird’s eye view of Jerusalem, I stated that the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre was one of the most prominent objects in the city.
This famous building is located about midway the city, from east to
west, but not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards from
the northern wall. It is, therefore, near the Damascus gate. Although
thus centrally situated, although it covers an area of 200 by 230 feet,
and although it lifts its double dome high in the air, this church is
frequently passed by without attracting the slightest notice.
The reader naturally asks, “How is it possible that a building at once
so historic and prominent as this attracts little or no attention?” The
question is easily answered. Except a few feet on the south side, the
structure is entirely surrounded by other buildings that join close
on to it. These houses, which serve both for business purposes and
residences, are built one upon another, until they reach high in air.
The church is thus almost entirely shut out from the view of the street
walker. To be seen externally, this edifice must be viewed from the
city walls, from the Tower of David, from the Mosque of Omar, from the
hill on the west, or from the Mount of Olives, on the east. When viewed
from any one of these elevations, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is
indeed prominent. From an architectural standpoint, the building is
“without form and void.” But there it is, its two blue domes, like
ever-open eyes, of unequal size, continually staring you in the face.
The building is owned jointly by the Latins, the Greeks, the Armenians,
and the Copts, each sect having its separate chapels and apartments,
neither one being allowed to trespass upon the rights of any of the
others. The building proper is owned by so-called Christian sects,
as stated above, but the _door is the property of the Mohammedans_!
And jealously do they guard their property. The ponderous door works
on rough hinges, and is fastened with bolts of iron. But to open it,
the worshippers and even the priests who minister at the altars, are
compelled to use a golden key. When the gold glitters, the door opens.
To avoid this unparalleled imposition, many priests have actually taken
up their abode in the sanctuary, their meals being passed to them
through small apertures in the wall. The people are not so fortunate as
the priests. They can not live in seclusion. They must work for bread
and blanket, for Church and children. It is all they can do to keep
soul and body together, yet will they divide their scanty living with
the Mohammedans who own the door of the Sepulchre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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