12. Ponte Nomentano in the Campagna, three miles from Rome. This, no
doubt, is the most romantic of all the fortified bridges that Brangwyn
has painted. Both bridge and castle are mediæval, but they rise over
the willow-frilled Anio, a river haunted by myths which to the ancients
were sacred truths. It was in the Anio that Rhea Silvia passed from the
brief hours of her mortality into the life of a goddess; and to this
river Silvia confided her two children, Romulus and Remus, the twin
Moses of Roman story, who were carried in their cradle to the Tiber,
where other waters bore them on and on till at last they came to land
under the fig tree at the foot of the Palatine hill. What a delightful
legend to be whispered by the current of the prattling Anio below the
uncouth stones of the Nomentano! What other war-bridge has been united
to such a gracious myth?
And history as well as legend has been busy on the banks of the Anio.
Into this river the ashes of Marius were thrown by the adherents of
Sulla; and beyond the bridge, on the right bank, west of the Via
Nomentana, is a very famous hillside, the Mons Sacer, to which the
plebeians retreated, as to a fortified place, when they asserted their
right to tame the patricians. Their first great strike, or secession,
occupied four months in the year 549 B.C., when four thousand of them
encamped on the friendly hill, leaving the crops unharvested, and the
city without a garrison. Mount Sacer became sacred to the People of
Rome, and to the historic sense it is the Hill of Liberty, sanctified
by the first brave ideals of a democratic justice. Yet in recent times
vulgarians have taken hold of Mount Sacer, and have carted it away by
the ton to be used as building material.
As for the Ponte Nomentano, he is nothing more than a burly soldier,
a common man-at-arms. The mediæval engineer was uninspired by an
enchanted site, and gave the whole of his attention to the pronged
battlements. He had no feeling for proportion, and no liking for
a stern eloquence of line such as we find in the noble castle of
Chenonceaux, a masterpiece of the French Renaissance, whose long wing
is carried by a bridge of five round arches, and whose turreted portion
is pierced by a single arcade.
13. The bridges of Laroque, near Cahors, on the river Lot. In this
rapid sketch Brangwyn represents a riverside Gibraltar upon which an
ancient village stands, partly on bridges. Its value in “the good
old times” as a stronghold fortified by Nature is patent, and the
watch-towers have an unsleeping alertness that looks out upon the world
through one eye or window. I should like to know who built the first
bridge at Laroque. There is a Romanesque form in the arch drawn by
Brangwyn, and the Romans were active in the neighbourhood. Over the Lot
at Divona, now called Cahors, they built a bridge, which perished some
years ago in a local storm of party feeling. To imagine Rome with a
Gibraltar on the Lot is a great pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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