For a long time the old bridge at Bâle, over the Rhine, remarkable
for its length and for its beautiful site, was not only freakish but
exceedingly insolent. At one end, on the side of greater Bâle, was a
tower decorated with a grotesque head called Laellenkoenig, which,
in answer to the working of a clock, put out its tongue and rolled
insulting eyes at the opposite bank. Eight or ten times an hour this
abusive pantomime was repeated, and it never failed to anger little
Bâle, which had the pugnacious vanity of a small organism. I do not
know how many duels were fought, but at last a touch of Rabelaisian
humour suggested a mechanical revenge, far more regular in its action
than were fights and punctured bodies. A tall post was set up by the
inhabitants of Bâle junior, and on the top of it stood a hateful
statue that affected to turn its back on the enemy with a shameless
movement.
It is risky at the present time to say that a bridge has certain old
characters: change is so rapid that no pontist can keep in touch with
its vagaries; but I believe the old bridge at Bâle is alive, and that
it keeps in use the Gothic tower, a triangular defence of red sandstone
erected on the middle pier, and devoted now to a thermometer, a
barometer, and a table of weights and measures. Laellenkoenig has gone,
of course, and Bâle junior has grown much bigger and less techy.
The Bridge of Sighs, at Venice, must be included among the exceptional
bridges, being equally celebrated in history and in art. Who can say
how many times she has been etched and painted and engraved? She is
not very important as a work of architecture, yet artists are drawn
towards her invariably, and seldom do they fail to make her impressive.
Brangwyn loves the Bridge of Sighs, and does her much more than justice
in one of his finest etchings. There is something trivial in her
Renaissance ornament, and her proportions are not great, being only two
metres wide and six high; on the other hand, her abutments are famous
buildings, the ducal palace and the State prison. It is from the second
storey of the palace that we enter the gloom of her covered passage,
concerning which a Frenchman writes as follows: “_On pourrait presque
le comparer, en agrandissant les proportions, à nos fourgons d’armée_.”
It is said that only a prisoner here and there went over this bridge
more than once--in his compulsory walk from a dungeon in the prison to
the Council of the Ten. Those who awaited their trial in the dungeons
were looked upon as already condemned; their appearance before the Ten
was a formality, at least in public opinion; and for this reason the
dark corridor across the canal was called the Bridge of Sighs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account