"All the islands, except the bare rocks, are covered with down
and moorland, bounded in every direction by rocky headlands and
slopes covered with granite boulders. And always, day after
day, they came continually upon unexpected places: strange
places, beautiful places: beaches of dazzling white;
wildly-heaped carns; here a cromlech, a logan stone, a barrow;
a new view of sea and sky and white-footed rock. I believe that
there does not live any single man who has actually explored
all the isles of Scilly, stood upon every rock, climbed every
hill, and searched on every island for its treasures of ancient
barrows, plants, birds, carns, and headlands. Once there was a
worthy person who came here as chaplain to S. Martin's. He
started with the excellent intention of seeing everything.
Alas! he never saw a single island properly: he never walked
round one exhaustively. He wrote a book about them, to be sure;
but he saw only half."
There are numerous cairns, barrows, kistvaens, and circles of stones in
the islands, and Giant's Castle, in S. Mary's, is a good example of a
cliff-camp of the Irish Firbolg type. A local guide attributes it to
the Danes, but that is nonsense.
In Porth Hellick Bay Sir Cloudesley Shovel was washed ashore and buried.
In 1707 Sir Cloudesley in the _Association_, Captain Hancock in the
_Eagle_, Sir George Byng in the _Royal Anne_, Captain Coney in the
_Romney_, Lord Dudley in the _St. George_, Captain Piercy in the
_Firebrand_, and a captured fireship, the _Phœnix_, were returning from
Toulon after the capture of Gibraltar. On the morning of the 22nd
October, the weather being thick and dirty, they came into soundings of
nineteen fathoms. There is a tradition that a seaman on the admiral's
ship warned the officer of the watch that unless the ship's course were
altered they would soon be on the rocks of Scilly. This was reported to
Sir Cloudesley, who was very angry. He had the man brought before him,
and attempted to browbeat him, but the man stuck to his opinion. The
admiral lost his temper, as he considered it a breach of decorum for a
common mariner to dictate the course of the vessel to a superior
officer, and he ordered the man to be hanged at the yard-arm. One
request was granted to the sailor--that he should be allowed to read
aloud a psalm to the assembled crew. This was permitted, and he read
out Psalm cix.:--
"Hold not Thy tongue, O God of my praise: for the mouth of the
ungodly, yea, the mouth of the deceitful, is opened upon us."
That night the ship was lost. At six in the evening the admiral, who
had brought the fleet to during the afternoon, made sail again, and
stood away under canvas. Directly after he made signals of distress,
which were returned by several of the fleet. Sir George Byng in the
_Royal Anne_, who was a mile to windward of him, saw the breakers, and
saved his vessel with difficulty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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