In the churchyard are four upright stones enclosing a quadrangular
space, within which no burials are made, and in the church is an
inscribed stone, that apparently stood originally by these four
“marks.” On it is an inscription most puzzling to antiquaries,
supposed to be couched in Early Welsh, and to record that this was the
burial-place of S. Cadvan, and that his great patron Cyngen, prince
of Powys and this portion of Merioneth, lies by him. It has been thus
translated by Professor Westwood:--
“Beneath the mound of Cynvael lies Cadvan,
Where the earth extols his praise. Let him rest without a blemish.
The Body of Cyngen, and between them will be the marks.”
Professor Rhys, however, disputes the reading. Cadvan was a son of
Gwen of the Three Breasts by her first husband, Æneas of Armorica.
Owing to some dynastic revolution he fled with sundry of his cousins
and followers to Wales, in the fifth century, and was well received
by Cyngen, who gave him lands. Gwen afterwards married one Fragan or
Brychan, and went with him to Brittany, where she became the mother of
S. Winwalloe, Abbot of Landevennec.
Near the church is S. Cadvan’s Holy Well, now in the yard of a
soda-water manufactory, and covered over and disregarded. Formerly it
was much resorted to for baths.
From Towyn the Dysynni valley should be ascended to Tal-y-Llyn. The
lake occupies the trough of a valley, and is a mile and a quarter long
and a quarter of a mile wide, and is one of the most fished lakes in
Wales. Although the Dysynni is full of salmon and sewin, these fish do
not enter the lake, or, if they do, lose all their sporting instincts.
The brooks that feed the lake absolutely swarm with trout, very small,
but very delicious; and so the cormorants find them who sit on Craig
Aderyn, a magnificent projecting rock down the valley, and dream off
their last meal till appetite wakes them and they wing their way, now
to fish in the sea and then to go inland for the trout in the lake and
its tributaries.
At Towyn there is sea-fishing for others beside cormorants. Good
bass angling with a fly can be had where the river enters the sea,
and “these somewhat ungainly productions,” says that enthusiastic
sportsman Mr. Lloyd Price, “supposed to be the most useful adjuncts to
the art, with their red bodies, white and yellow wings, ephemeræ of
scorn to the salmon-fishers, display their crude and vulgar proportions
in the windows of almost every shop in the town.”
The ascent of Cader Idris can be made from the head of Tal-y-Llyn Lake,
and thence the _cirque_ of Cwm Cowarch should be visited, and the
wondrous tarn Llyn Caer lying, as it were, at the bottom of a crater.
Near Towyn is Llanegryn, on a height commanding a glorious view, and
the church contains a magnificent rood-screen and loft in excellent
preservation. In this parish is Peniarth, the house of the Wynns, with
its precious legacy of Welsh MSS. The church is crowded with Wynn
monuments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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