But if Williams had reckoned on retaining his archbishopric and other
emoluments as the price of his treachery, he was mistaken. The rest
of his life was spent in seclusion, in vain regrets, and it is said
in sincere repentance, rising from his bed at midnight and praying
on his bare knees, with nothing on but his shirt and waistcoat. He
died at Gloddaith, near Conway, in 1650, and was buried in Llandegai
Church, where a monument was erected to him by his nephew, Sir Griffith
Williams.
Conway Church is good, with a fine tower and an Early Decorated chancel
that has a Perpendicular east window inserted. But the greatest
treasure of the church is its magnificent rood-screen; and there are
good stalls in the choir.
Plas Mawr is a specimen of a Welsh gentleman’s house of the sixteenth
century, with panelled rooms and quaint plaster ceilings. The house
has fifty-two doors, as many steps up the tower, and 365 windows.
Rising above Conway is Caer Seiont, where are circles of stones and
embankments, the remains of a camp probably dating from the Irish
possession of Gwynedd. The railway is carried through a tunnel in a
spur of the hill. A glorious view is obtained from the summit, of the
sea, the Great Orme’s Head, and the valley of the Conway dotted with
houses. Near the mouth of the river on the further bank is Deganwy,
once the royal residence of Maelgwn, king of Gwynedd, a bold warrior,
but terribly nervous about his health, apparently, for when the Yellow
Plague, in 547, broke out he took to his heels. However, the plague
went after him, and he died of it.
But Maelgwn was not the only one to run away. Teilo, Bishop of
Llandaff, fled, taking with him his clergy, and sheltered in Brittany
till the disorder had passed. The Yellow Plague would seem to have been
a very infectious sickness attacking the bilious glands and producing
jaundice. It spread to Ireland and committed frightful ravages both
there and in Britain. As neither Bede nor the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle
makes any allusion to it, the plague cannot have touched the English,
but was confined to the Celtic lands. It, however, broke out again in
664.
[Illustration: PLAS MAWR, CONWAY]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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