Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
At Monistrol d'Allier the Ance du Sud comes in from the Margeride after
traversing a picturesque gorge. Here may be studied a fine basaltic
face, called Escluzels. There are grottoes in the neighbourhood
excavated in the tufa by the hand of man, but when is not known. A
chapel dedicated to the Magdalen has been scooped out of the rock, but
given a frontage of wall, and is an object of pilgrimage on the Sunday
following July 22nd, when and where may be seen some of the costumes of
the neighbourhood not yet wholly discarded.
On the opposite bank of the Allier is S. Privat, where the stream of
Bouchoure comes down writhing between high precipices. The tower of
Rochegude occupies the summit of a peak 1,500 feet high, commanding
the river and the roads. In 1865 a discovery was made at S. Privat
of a cache of a Roman oculist of the third century. Along with his
little store of coins lay his delicate instruments, and a cube as well,
bearing on each face the name of one of the medicaments employed by
him, and the cube used probably by him for sealing up his packets.
The man seems to have known his business, or at all events of having
both instruments and remedies not by any means barbarous. On reaching
Alleyras the valley opens into a basin. Above the little town shoots up
a mass of rock looking like a gigantic thumb as we approach from the
north, but changing form as Alleyras is passed. It is actually a huge
slab of rock that is detached from the mountain by a wide fissure.
The basin of Alleyras was once a lake, where the river paused to
rest before it renewed its efforts to break a way through the lava.
From this point upwards the scenery is less savage and gloomy. At
Chapeauroux the railway describes a great curve, and pursues its way
through tunnel and over viaduct till it draws up at Langogne, a busy
little town of the Gévaudan, of some commercial importance. A monastery
was founded here in 998 by Stephen Count of the Gévaudan, and Silvester
II. presented to it the relics of SS. Gervasius and Protasius, and
further conferred on the town the more than doubtful privilege of being
out of episcopal jurisdiction, to be looked after or let alone by the
Holy See only. The place suffered severely in the Hundred Years War,
and again and worse even in those of religion. From 1562 for nearly a
century and a half the Gévaudan was devastated turn and turn about by
Protestants and Catholics, and Langogne passed from the hands of one
party to those of the other. In 1568 the Huguenots sacked the town and
set fire to the church and monastery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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