Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
A magnificent curved viaduct crosses the basin of the Luech, carried
on two stages of arcades 180 feet above the river to Chamborigaud,
the tragic story of which has been told in the preceding chapter. The
line traverses the masses of a rock and earth slide from the Montagne
du Gouffre, and enters a region of coal-beds. The coal seams can be
seen between sandstone in the cuttings for the line. On the right is
the donjon of La Tour commanding the abbey of Cendras, burnt by the
Camisards, then gorges and smoking cinder heaps, and we arrive at
Alais, a neat, pleasant, cheerful town, once the seat of a bishop,
situated in a loop formed by the Gardon, with the lofty rock of
Rochebelle opposite on the further side of the river. This height was
the site of the primitive oppidum of Alesia, or Alestia. The cyclopean
walls remain in places fairly perfect, and the enclosure can be traced
throughout. Alais never was a Roman city; it was, however, probably
a place where the iron mines were worked. A hermitage was there till
the Revolution. When the plague raged in Alais in 1721, a Carmelite,
Esprit Boyer, worked indefatigably among the sick, and on its cessation
obtained leave to retire to this hermitage, where he planted a garden
and reared a chapel. On his death another hermit took his place, and
he assumed the honoured name of Esprit, but as he was a drunkard he
was nicknamed Esprit de Vin. He ran away, carrying with him the chapel
bell, but was caught and ordered to return to his hermitage. In 1793
he was denounced as suspect, and some individuals were sent up the
height to arrest him. He refused to open to them, and threw stones at
their heads and threatened to shoot the first man who entered. They,
however, stove in the door with a pole, whereupon Esprit escaped out of
a window, but in trying to crawl away unseen fell over the rocks and
broke his leg. He was taken to the hospital and died there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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