Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
Ganges is a manufacturing town, its speciality being the most delicate
silk fabrics. Marvels of lightness are produced. Dyeing the silk is
also done here. The workers produce stockings so fine that a pair will
weigh only 185 grains. The spider does not spin a finer web, and not so
strong, for these impalpable tissues are remarkably resistant. The silk
is purchased in cocoons in the markets of Alais and S. Hippolyte in May
and June. The weaving is done only by day, and embroidresses work with
their needle adorning the tissues, and are remarkably dexterous and
tasteful.
The population is divided into Protestants, who have a large circular
meeting-house on the Grande Place, and the Catholics, who have a
stately new church opposite the old château of the Marquesses of
Ganges, in another part of the town.
Excursions may be made from Ganges to explore the gorges of the Vis
and the Hérault, but there is a dearth of roads. They do not penetrate
these ravines; and to traverse the glaring plateau or to thread the
burning ravines in summer is impossible. They must be visited in April
and May, but even March is not too early.
CHAPTER XIV
LE VIGAN
Schist ravines—Valley of the Arre—Wolves—Vindomagus—Fountain of
Isis—Saracens—Priory—Jean Peyrenc—Persecution of Huguenots—Murder
of Daudé—Execution of Bénézet—Reprisals—Avèze—Pont de
Mousse—Brigand barons—A long lawsuit—The Montcalm family—Aulos—A
man of many duels—The Vis—Montdardier—The Ginestous—Causse de
Blandas—Navacelles—Le Vigan—The Chevalier d'Assas—Triaire.
When the line leaves Ganges it leaves the white limestone crags and
plunges among broken schist mountains, and the curious rugged mass of
Esparon stands up before one as a fortress against the blue sky. The
valley of the Arre is entered, and presently we arrive at Le Vigan in a
pleasant site, a green smiling valley enclosed within a triple range,
first of hills terraced up, step above step, with walls to retain the
meagre deposit of soil laboriously cultivated. The second stage is
one of mountains dense with chestnuts. Above this rises the rugged
range of granite that forms the watershed between the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean. Among the higher rocks sprout a few twisted and stunted
beech, the relics of the ancient forests that formerly sheltered the
bear, the wild boar, and the wolf. These forests have disappeared,
partly through fires kindled to clear away the lurking-places of the
Camisards, partly to destroy the shelter of the wolves, mainly through
the improvidence of the peasantry. It has been found simpler to get
rid of the wolves by strychnine than by fire, and they are now very
nearly exterminated. But the destruction of the forests has had such
lamentable results that the Board of Forestry is engaged in replanting
large tracts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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