Pilgrimages arrive at S. Guilhem on Monday in Easter week and October 1st. On the south side of the church is the cloister, very early, contemporary with the nave, and with traces of painting in it; but it has been pulled to pieces. In the midst stood a fountain that spouted water in as many jets as there are days in the year. But it was sold to a Paris dealer in antiquities, and where it now is cannot be said. The old monastic buildings, burnt by the Camisards, were reconstructed, and are now occupied by a Baron d'Albenas. Some of the houses in the town are certainly Romanesque. There was a second church in the place, but it is now in ruins. Returning to Aniane, it is worth mentioning that in destroying the old presbytery a marble slab was found bearing an Arabic inscription: "In the name of Allah, the clement and merciful, peace be with Mahomed. There is but one God. It is to Him, and to Him alone, that all power is due." A precisely identical inscription has been found at Montpellier, and this shows that the Saracens were in Languedoc not only as destroyers and raiders, but as inhabitants. Guillaume planted himself very close to where they had been, and whence he had turned them out. And now my account is ended: not that I have exhausted the country. I have done no more than touch upon some points in it. It is a country that fascinates any one who visits it, that lays hold of his heart in strange fashion, and he is inclined when back in England to say, with Ferdinand Fabre:— "Quand mon cerveau à vidé sur le papier blanc sa mince provision d'idées journalières, les coudes à la barre d'appui (de ma fenêtre) je coule là, en une paresse délicieuse, de longues heurs à rêver. Mon âme alors s'envole au pays si profondément incrusté en elle, ce pays que je rétrouve dans le moindre plis de mes pensées, ce pays qui, le plus ordinairement, lorsque j'ose écrire, me commande, et auquel j'obéis." INDEX Aigoual, Mt., 20, 248-58 Aiguèze, 147 Aiguilhe, the, 16-35, 42-4 Alais, 160, 186, 204-19 Albigensian crusade, 47-8, 283 Alleyras, 171 Allier, River, 19, 161-71 Alzon, 243 Aniane, 297, 302 Antraigues, 122-5; Comte d', 123-5 Arabic inscriptions, 302 Ardèche, River, 8, 128, 137-48, 163 Arlempdes, 16, 81 Arzon, River, 68 Assas, Claude d., 240; Louis, 246-7 Astier, Gabriel, 179-83 Aubenas, 114-15, 117-20 Auvergne violets, 246 Avens, 4, 138, 152, 155, 234-6 Avèze, 241-2, 243 Balmes de Montbrul, 8 Bar, crater of, 17 Barre des Cévennes, 252, 255 Basalt, 16, 22, 62, 81, 122, 129, 134, 135-6, 170 Bastide, La, 175, 203 Battle of the winds, 248-50 Bâville, 180, 183, 185, 240, 295 Béate, La, 27-8 Bédarieux, 262, 264-5 Belsunce, Mgr. de, 174 Benedict XII., 208 Bénézet, 240-1 Berrias, 158-9 Béziers, 273-4 Bible of Theodulf, 45-6 Blacons, 56-9 Blandas, 244 Bonaparte, 110 Borne, River, 23, 34, 62