Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The splendid ruins of the Castle of Boulogne attract a host of visitors
from Vals annually during the season. It is reached by carriage,
quitting the high road from Aubenas to Privas by a branch road from
Auriolles to S. Etienne. The castle was built by a Count of Valentinois
in the eleventh century. It remained in the hands of the Grimaldi,
Counts of Valentinois, to 1344. In 1384 it became the property of the
Lestranges, and they retained it to 1579; when it passed to the de
Hautefort de Lestranges till 1632. After that it shifted proprietors
rapidly. At the Revolution it belonged to Fay-Gerlande till 1794, when
it was sold. The Count, seeing what was coming, disposed of most of
his land to one Blaise Comte on condition that he should every year
present a violet at the castle on the 15th of March. Nevertheless it
was disposed of to a man of S. Etienne, who pulled much of it down
and sold the materials. It was then purchased by the Abbé Volle, curé
of Asperjoc, to rescue it from complete demolition, and he retained
it for thirty years and then disposed of it to the Marquess Theodore
de Lestrange. The magnificent gateway with twisted columns and the
arms of Montlaun was erected by Claude René d'Hautefort de Lestrange,
who brought to him the barony of Privas; he it was who transformed a
feudal stronghold into a sumptuous palace. The façade is sustained on a
structural terrace.
A favourite walk of but an hour above Vals and through the valley of
the Volane leads to Antraigues. The river has worked its laborious
course through masses of basalt and beds of scoria overlying granite
and porphyry. At every step some fresh picture opens or some fresh
object of interest arrests the eye. Here is a precipice over which
leaps a stream in a beautiful fall; there colonnades of prismatic form;
further on masses of scoriæ brought down by the rains from the mountain
side, whose flanks have been bared. The road plunges even deeper into
the ravine that narrows. Then a stream bounds in a double fall over a
basaltic face of rock, the second leap being formed by a ledge entitled
the Devil's Chair, on which His Majesty is said to cool himself in
the water on leaving his heated realms below. Next the Cheese Rock is
reached, a mass of basalt standing by itself, and Antraigues appears
as an eagle's nest perched on a peninsula of crag between three
valleys, those of the Mas, the Bise, and the Volane. The tower of the
church is all that remains of the old fortress of the Marquesses of
Antraigues. The site is savage, amidst green chestnuts, black lava
rocks, and red volcanic cinders. The Marquesses of Antraigues bore an
evil name as robbers, lawless and violent in the extreme, for which
several were executed at Toulouse. The story of the last of those who
owned and for a while occupied the castle forms the theme of Jules
Claretie's _Les Muscadins_.
[Illustration: VALÉE DE LA VOLANE (LE FAUTEUIL DU DIABLE)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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