Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
When the Gravenne had turned the former valley into a lake of molten
stone, and when that lake had chilled, then the watery elements began
their work. The two rivers laboured to fray themselves a course. The
Pourseilles has cut through an upper and amorphous bed of lava, then it
leaps over a lower and very regular bed of prismatic basalt that rests
on softer material, which has been worn away by weather and water so
that the basalt forms a cornice and canopy overhead. Pourcheirolles is
undoubtedly one of the most picturesque points in Ardèche. The castle,
perched as a vultures' lair in the midst of the valley of Montpezat,
suspended between precipices, seems calculated to evade and defy
assault. The castle was, however, erected not by a man of war, but
a man of peace, Cardinal Pierre Flandrin, born on the flanks of the
Mézenc in 1312. He was created Cardinal by Gregory XI., who employed
him in various delicate negotiations. He died in 1378. His tomb was at
Viviers, but was destroyed by the Huguenots. His nephew, Jean Flandrin,
after having been Archbishop of Auch, was created Cardinal by Clement
VII. The choice of the valley of Montpezat for their residence in
summer heats was due to proximity to Avignon, at that time the seat of
the papacy. The castle was never very large, and its importance was due
to its position, not to its walls and towers.
The river Burzet flows into the Fontollière, and a road leads up the
valley to the little town of the same name as the stream. The church,
with nave and side aisles, dates from 1400. When the three bells in the
tower are rung, the tower sways eight inches out of the perpendicular.
A walk of from three to four hours from Burzet leads to the very fine
cascade of Ray-Pic, where the river leaps over a basaltic escarpment
that had been vomited by the volcano of the same name, which filled the
valley of the Burzet to the distance of ten miles. "He who has not seen
Ray-Pic has seen nothing" is a saying among the peasantry.
[Illustration: FALLS OF RUY PIC]
At Burzet, on Good Friday, a procession perambulates the little place,
bearing representations on cars of the scenes of the Passion, much like
that which is famous at Seville, but here on a much smaller scale.
The river of Burzet has not, like other streams, sawn its way through
the basalt, only through the upper uncrystallised portion which it has
carried away, and it slides on its course over a paved bed of the tops
of the prisms, "not unlike the Roman roads in Italy, but arranged with
far greater neatness and accuracy of design." The columns in Lower
Vivarais, says Mr. Scrope, are usually hexahedral, often five-sided;
those of four occur rarely, of seven still more rarely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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