Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
From the foot of the cone issues the source of the Fontollière, strong
enough at ten paces down to turn a mill. Near the Vestide is the little
lake Forraud, not situated in a crater, but formed in a depression of
the surface. Also, near at hand, is the Suc de Bauzon, another volcanic
vent, red-headed, and 4,430 feet high. On the summit is a large stone
table, at which, according to tradition, every year the four Seigneurs
of Montpezat, Roux, Urclades, and S. Cirgues met, and each sat on a
seat in his own territory, as all their lands met in the midst of this
table. There is no crater on this _suc_.
We return again to the valley of the Ardèche and mount to Thueyts,
leaving on the left the pretty little bathing establishment of Neyrac.
The road ascends along the flank of the Petit Gravenne on the left
bank of the river and crosses a bridge thrown over the stream of the
Mordaric, whose waters form the cascade of the Gueule d'Enfer. The
huge basaltic wall now comes into sight that sustains the plateau
of Thueyts, on which the town is built. The river has carved for
itself a channel through this mass of lava and the granite below, and
exhibits a majestic colonnade of basalt 150 feet high, and extending
with few breaks for a mile and a half along the valley. But one of
these breaks forms the Echelle du Roy, a rift due to dislocation of
the flow. To visit the Pavé des Géants, the finest basaltic causeway
in the Vivarais, it is well to descend to the river at the Gueule
d'Enfer, sometimes on basaltic prisms, then on masses of granite. The
columnar basalt now becomes regular; some prisms 60 feet long, others
shorter jointed. The black walls rise like those of a fortress, and the
path follows the base till the Royal Ladder is reached, a staircase
in a natural chimney, where every step is a basaltic prism that has
been broken. The view of the valley from the top of the ladder is of
striking beauty. The ascent is 240 feet.
In Thueyts itself there is not much to be seen of architectural
interest.
Still further up the valley of the Ardèche, by the fine road
constructed by the Estates of Languedoc for communication with Le Puy
as easier than that followed by the Romans by Montpezat, is Mayres in
the bottom of a valley and in a delightful situation surrounded by
mountains. It is the last station before ascending the pass over the
backbone of the Cévennes.
Here flutters and soars a great black eagle, that carries off lambs to
the nest in the rocks of Astel rising over 900 feet from the valley.
It is believed to come from the Alps to spend its breeding season in
the Vivarais, both in these rocks and in those of Abraham, and that it
returns to the Alps in winter. This is not the _Aquila fulva_, which is
common enough, but the _Aquila imperialis_. It soars so high and keeps
so well at a distance from men that the hunters very rarely are able to
kill one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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