Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
Standing high above the junction of the Chassezac and Ardèche are the
mountain and rock of Sampson, supporting a little village and church
with spire on a _col_ between the mighty crest of perpendicular rock
and the crag that falls abruptly to the Chassezac. A small omnibus
conveys travellers to Vallon, which is the place at which to stay,
whence to make the descent of the cañon of the Ardèche. But the visitor
who does this must be prepared either to return to Vallon by carriage
over the Causse, some twenty miles, or he must be without luggage,
and catch the train at S. Just or S. Marcel, and meet his impedimenta
elsewhere, perhaps at Le Teil, for the canoes that shoot the rapids of
the Ardèche are too small to accommodate baggage.
Vallon is not a town in itself of much interest, but it contains the
château of the redoubtable Huguenot captain, Merle de Lagorce, who
sacked Malzieu and Issoire, and burnt the cathedral at Mende. Vallon
was in the hands of the Reformed, but, on the other hand, old Vallon
with its castle on the height above it remained to the Catholics.
Opposite that, on the further side of the river, is Salavas, where a
strong and extensive castle, now in ruins, occupied the crest of a
precipitous rock. These two positions Merle was determined on taking;
he succeeded, and died in the castle of Salavas at the end of January,
1584, at the age of thirty-five. I have given his life in my _Deserts
of Central France_.
His son Hérail de Merle, Baron de Lagorce, joined the Church, and
entered into the service of the King.
On February 6th, 1842, died in the château of Vallon the Marquess
Emmanuel de Merle de Lagorce, last male descendant of the eldest
branch of the family, and left the château to his sister, married to
the Count de Chapelain, who sold it to the town of Vallon in 1846.
When the citizens came to take possession and convert the castle into
a mairie, school, etc., they discovered in a loft a whole series of
superb tapestries rolled up and forgotten. These came from the château
of Montréal in L'Argentière, brought thence in 1783. They are from
Aubusson looms, and are in seven panel pictures representing scenes
from the "Jerusalem Delivered" of Tasso. They adorn the chamber now
used by the magistracy. Very fine is the hammered ironwork of the
balustrade of the great staircase.
Vallon had its hour of celebrity under the Empire and the Restoration,
when Vanderbourg published the medieval poems of Clotilde de Surville,
who lived at Vallon at the period when Joan of Arc was fighting against
the English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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