Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The boat shoots under the Pont de l'Arc; the rock that has been
pierced is ninety feet thick. As already said, a fortress stood above,
destroyed by Louis XIII., on a bit of rising ground on the left bank.
There are still remains of the octagonal tower and enclosing wall
and of some of the chambers tenanted by the garrison. But it was an
_oppidum_, a place of refuge from prehistoric times, as early stone
weapons, and later Gallo-Roman ware, have been found there, as well
as accumulations of pebbles to serve as sling-stones. The road down
the river ends at Chames, where is a boatman, who lives by fishing and
ferrying over any of the inhabitants of S. Remèze or la Bastide de
Verac, who desire to cross. A stream issues from a grotto; it is the
Fontaine de Vamale. The cave is apparently closed at the end, but on
entering one finds on the right hand an opening into a valley, giving
access to a terrace above the river, lighted by the setting sun, in
which luxuriate lavender, Judas trees, evergreen dwarf oaks, juniper,
and wild asparagus. This tiny valley is bounded on the west by a lofty
calcareous wall in which is a rent, and a narrow path leads up this
gap among bushes to the top of the plateau. It is by this track that
the inhabitants of Vic descend and ascend before or after crossing the
river.
Hard by is a natural cave on the right bank, partly closed by a wall,
so overgrown with ivy that were it not pointed out one might pass
without discovering that man built himself a residence here. This
is called the Castle of Ebbo, and the tradition is current that the
Templars of La Madeleine fled to it and hid there when sentence had
gone forth against them by Philip the Fair in 1312; but it was probably
a post that belonged to the Seigneur of Verac to watch his fisheries.
Chames is a little hamlet on the left bank of the Ardèche, where
the rocks fall back and allow of slopes on which can grow olive
trees, vines, plums, and almonds. The water is here still and seems
transformed to a mirror, so that from the opposite side, that of
the Castle of Ebbo, when the sun is full on the white cottages and
gleaming limestone rocks, they as well as the fruit trees are reflected
with intensity in the glassy surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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