Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
Orens was born at Huescar, in the marches of Aragon. He sold his estate
and retired as a hermit to the Valley of Lavedan. He was elected Bishop
of Auch about 419, and was dispatched as ambassador from Theodoric
the Ostrogoth to sue for peace from Aetius, the Roman general, and was
successful. He was the author of a religious poem, the “Commonitorium,”
still extant, and died in 439 at his monastery in the Lavedan, to which
he had retired at an advanced age from his see.
This monastery had fallen into bad ways in the eighteenth century,
and the repute of the monks was so evil that the Bishop of Tarbes
visited it in 1738. The prior took to his heels when he heard that an
investigation into his malpractices was to be held. At the time the
entire community was reduced to prior, sacristan, and a single monk,
and these no longer resided in the monastery, but lodged with the
_curé_ of Villelongue. In the _procès_ instituted against the convent
we read:--
“One of the three above-mentioned is the craftiest and most
dangerous man conceivable. He is the cock of the village. He
attempted to murder the prior. He stole one of the chalices.
The other monk is the most imbecile and stupid creature in the
place. He has lived on in the house for the last fifty years,
and does not know how to read.”
The ruins of the church stand boldly above the torrent that descends
in a series of cascades. The stream may be followed up to the Lake of
Isaby, from which it rises.
The basin of Argelez comes abruptly to an end at Pierrefite, surmounted
by a ruined castle; here the Pic de Viscos divides, with the chain
running from it, the valleys of Luz and of Cauterets; the Gaves from
these break out of the cleft rock, for that is what Pierrefite means,
on one side and on the other, and here unite. At this point terminates
the railway; but hence electric trams ply to Cauterets up one ravine,
and to Luz up the other.
The line to Cauterez rises rapidly up steep inclines and describing
curves that command views down the chasm where the Gave boils and
thunders. A tunnel is entered, passed through, and the view back of the
sun-bathed, fertile Valley of Argelez, of the walnuts and chestnuts of
S. Savin, is excluded. We have passed from one world into another; from
golden sunlight into mountain gloom, from one vegetation to another as
well. The rocks add to the effect of transition, for they are of dark
schist streaked with ferruginous stains, and there are long spreading
refuse slides from the lead mines of Pierrefite, too poisonous to allow
any shrub, even grass, to grow on them. There are no gaps up which the
eye can look to gleaming snow fields, till all at once we emerge on the
basin of Cauterets, where the mountains fall back and open and show us
the sunlit snow, and a river dancing down in a fine fall, and before us
a bit of Paris dropped out of the clouds into this solitude.
But Cauterets and Luz must be reserved for another chapter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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