Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
This is perhaps the best preserved Templar church in France. So far it
has not undergone restoration, but it is far too small for a growing
place, and a new church will have to be built elsewhere.
Above Luz, on a height, is a hermitage, formerly occupied by a Père
Ambrose, who died in the odour of sanctity in 1778. He was a Capuchin
friar, born in 1708, who had embraced the religious life at the age
of sixteen. He wrote some godly works, one on the Joy of the Soul,
one on the Peace of the Soul, and a third consisted of letters giving
spiritual advice.
The chapel is dedicated to S. Peter. Napoleon III had it rebuilt, and
entitled S. Pierre-de-Solférino. Near by is a cairn, under which lie
the bones of Ambrose, the last hermit to occupy the place. The ruins
of the Castle of S. Marie date from the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries. There are two keeps. This fortress was formerly the
principal stronghold commanding the Valley of Barèges. It was built by
the English originally, and held by them, terrorizing the inhabitants
of the basin, till the Barègois peasants rose in a body against them in
1404, stormed the castle, and put the garrison to the sword. After that
it was rebuilt and strengthened.
Saint Sauveur consists of a long street of hotels, and is occupied in
the summer alone. In winter and spring every door and window is barred.
It is reached from Luz over a bridge, erected in 1860 by order of
Napoleon III. The keystone of the arch is 198 feet above the torrent.
[Illustration: LA BRÊCHE DE ROLAND]
Another bridge, farther up, is that of Scia; like the former,
constructed of white marble, and thrown at an amazing height above the
Gave, where huge blocks of granite intercept its course, and it
roars and tumbles savagely over the obstruction. A French guide-book
asserts that at the spot an English lady, the Lady Clara, standing
on the bridge, recited the celebrated soliloquy of Hamlet, in this
fashion: “To die, to slip!” and then flung herself into the abyss. No
such an incident ever occurred there.
The Brêche de Roland, a gash in the high ridge of snow and rock above
Gavarnie, now becomes visible, as Pragnères is reached, but it is
invisible from Gavarnie itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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