Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
This mass is but one portion of a landslip that took place in 1650,
which dammed up the river and formed a lake, which in its turn was
destroyed by a flood in 1788. Among the fallen rocks may be found the
beautiful _Saxifraga pyramidalis_ or _longifolia_, and the _Ramondia
pyrenaica_. Pilgrimages are made to the chapel on 15 August and 8
September.
The Cirque de Troumousse is above Héas. It is less remarkable than
that of Gavarnie, though more extensive. It lacks the series of bold
escarpments capped with glacier that form the distinguishing feature of
the latter.
Above Gèdre, on the route to Gavarnie is a _chaos_, an agglomeration of
fallen gneiss rocks from above; it is as if half a mountain had been
precipitated into the valley from the Coumélie. Farther up may be seen
a cleft rock, between the jaws of which hangs a mass, arrested there
on its way down. The scenery becomes grander, but at the same time
more dreary; the cirque opens before one, and we reach the village of
Gavarnie.
The Cirque of Gavarnie has been already briefly described in my first
chapter. To see it to advantage it should be visited in spring or early
summer, when, from the melting of the snows, the great fall is full of
water. It resembles the Staubbach only in the long drop of the stream
and its resolution into fine spray. The setting of it is immeasurably
superior to that of the famous Swiss fall. The height is 1385 feet,
and is the highest in Europe, except one or two in Norway. If there
be plenty of water it shoots down in one single column; but in summer
it descends in two leaps. This is not the only cascade in the cirque;
down every part of the huge curve threads of water drop into the basin.
Towards the end of a hot summer many of these fail, and the great
cascade is much reduced.
The first sight of the cirque is disappointing. There is nothing by
which to scale it, and the appearance is only one of size, gloom, and
cold. The bottom of the great bowl is heaped with rubble brought down
from above. But at Gavarnie we are four miles from the foot of the
cirque, and it looks as if not more than a quarter of an hour’s stroll
was required to reach it. A thousand feet seems to be no more than
a hundred, and the huge rocks hurled down from above are reduced in
appearance to mere pebbles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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