Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
“I dedicated a day to the Seculejo, and have seldom passed one
more to my mind. I left Bagnères de Luchon about sunrise. The
road to it is wild and pastoral, rapidly rising towards the
south, and having constantly in view the majestic scenery that
lies upon the Spanish frontier. The Lake of Seculejo is wild,
solitary, and sombre. The low ripple of the water, the noise
of the cataract, and the cry of a bird of prey, are the only
interruptions of silence that are in keeping with the scene;
and these were the only sounds that disturbed its tranquillity
as I stood upon the margin of the water. The lake is entirely
surrounded by high mountains, excepting where it finds egress;
and its shores are generally bold and rugged. At the upper end,
a cascade falls from the top of a perpendicular rock into the
lake. After lingering upon the margin of Seculejo an hour or
two, I climbed up the eastern bank, by a path which has almost
the appearance of a ladder, and which, indeed, bears the name
of Scala. Having reached the summit of the bank, I entered a
gorge, through which I passed to a hollow lying at the base
of the mountain, called the Espingo; and, still proceeding to
ascend the first ridges of the mountain, I reached the two
lakes of Espingo. These are very elevated mountain tarns lying
almost in the region of snow. All is here sombre, melancholy,
rude, and dismal--great rocks, a few stunted trees, and still,
deep, dark water, are the features of the scene.”
We return to Luchon. Do you desire health? It is to be found there, if
we may believe the advertisements of the wonders wrought by its waters,
more potent than that from the lips of the Grotto of Lourdes: “Toutes
les maladies de la peau, comme d’autres de toute espèce, les maladies
occassionées par le lait répandu, quelques graves qu’elles soient, les
rheumatismes, maladies des yeux, maladies des parties conservatrices
des yeux, lésions d’oreille, maladie du système osseux, blessures; gale
ventrée, rougeole, maladies des articulations; maladies des glandes
salvaires; humeurs froides; maladies des voies urinaires; catarrhe
pulmonaire; asthme; phthisie pulmonaire, obstructions de toutes sortes,
et jaunisse.” And, nevertheless, there is a cemetery at Luchon.
Luchon was well-known to the Romans, as the number of _ex voto_ altars
to the god Ilixion that have been found go to prove. The name of this
god of healing is to be recognized in a very altered shape in the
modern Luchon. In 1036 Luchon, with Upper Cominges, passed as dower to
the Crown of Aragon. Later it was restored to the counts of Cominges.
In 1711 the valley was ravaged, and Luchon burned by Charles of
Austria, who was disputing Spain with the Duke of Anjou.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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