Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
We now enter the old viscounty of Couserans, of which the civil capital
was Massat, and the ecclesiastical was S. Lizier. It pertained for
awhile to the counts of Carcassonne; Roger II gave both the district
and the bishopric to his younger son, Bernard, with the title of
viscount, in or about 990. But in 1257 Esquivat, Count of Bigorre,
inherited the land from Roger, Count of Pallier, and thus the
Couserans passed into the possession of the house of Foix-Béarn, and so
to the kings of Navarre.
The capital of the whole country in early days was Lugdunum
Consoranorum, now S. Lizier, and one of the nine cities of
Novempopulania. The Couserans, situated between the basins of the
Ariège and the Garonne, has much the shape of a vine-leaf, having the
valleys of the Arac, Garbet, Salat, and Lez converging at S. Girons
into the one broad stream of the Salat, as the stalk of the leaf. If S.
Bertrand de Cominges has fallen from its high estate to be a miserable
village, it is not alone in its fall, in that S. Lizier has shared
the same fate. But Lugdunum Convenarum went out in one tragic drama
of blood and flame. Lugdunum Consoranorum is dying of slow decline,
its life-blood sucked out of it by the parasitic growth of S. Girons.
Indeed, so low is it fallen that the railway does not afford it a
station, only a _halte_. Once the fifth in order of size and splendour
of the cities of Novempopulania, it now shelters within its walls not
more than five hundred inhabitants. This was a double town: one portion
was the city, the other the _ville_; and what is more, it possessed two
cathedrals--one in the city, Notre Dame; the other, S. Lizier, in the
town. As just before death a patient often brightens up, puts on an
appearance of renewed life, and enjoys buoyant hopes, only to sink in
relapse to death, so was it with this Lyons of the Couserans.
Bishop Bernard de Marmiesse (1653-80), not content with the medieval
residence of the prelates, erected an enormous and splendid palace,
commanding the whole town with its long façade flanked by semicircular
towers, embracing the cathedral of S. Marie de la Sède within its
walls. Where the bishops ruled and feasted in purple and fine linen
lunatics are now installed. Lazarus has crept into the shell of Dives.
The bishopric was suppressed at the Revolution and never restored.
There had been on the cathedral staff twelve canons and twenty-four
prebendaries, having under them a swarm of sacristans, _curés_ to
relieve them of burdensome duties, and workmen.
Ste. Marie de la Sède is a Renaissance church, but built when the
spirit of Gothic architecture had not gone out of the land; but the
portal is Romanesque. The interior woodwork is of the eighteenth
century, and is fine for its period. To the north is the chapter-house,
of the twelfth century. The materials of which cathedral and palace
were built proceeded from the ruins of the Gallo-Roman city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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