Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
“No sooner had we entered the hamlet of Sérac, with its steep
and muddy streets, than I asked after these strange educators.
Alas! it was a lost tradition. In all the commune of Uston
there was but a single little bear in training. Happily he
inhabited Sérac, so I could see him.
“A little girl conducted me to the grange in which the small
animal was shut up. It was still a baby, but its mark of
slavery was upon it, the ring through its nostrils, by means of
which the tamer can control it. The little bear, sitting up on
its hind paws, waddled and hopped incessantly, as if afflicted
with S. Vitus’s dance. Our visit seemed to please it; it
invited caresses, and rolled about at our feet. The people said
that it would be easy to tame the poor little bruin.”
Bears are no longer hunted on the French side of the Pyrenees, and
those who seek for them must cross over the Spanish frontier, where a
good many are still to be found in the forests. But, as already said,
the demand for them has ceased, not only to be led about, but to show
in barber’s yards as evidence that genuine bears’ grease is sold on the
premises.
This industry having failed, the peasants have had to fall back on
cattle-rearing, and dairy-farming. But this hardly suffices for their
necessities, and many of the men turn into hawkers, and almost all
migrate at the time of the vintage to the Bordelais and to Languedoc.
Whether it be the bear association, or the migratory habits of the
fathers of the household, has given a rudeness and lack of self-respect
to the children cannot be said, but nowhere in the Pyrenees does
mendicity prevail with such persistency and effrontery as in the
valleys of the Couserans. The legend prevails in the plain that when
Christ was walking over the earth with S. Peter He found these valleys
unpopulated; so He took clay and moulded it into a man, and set the
figure on its feet before Him, and breathed into it the breath of
life; whereupon instantly the New Adam held out its hands and cried,
“Un p’tit sou, siou plaît, m’ssius!” Begging has ever since been the
predominant and all-prevailing instinct of the upper region of the
Couserans.
The population here as elsewhere in the mountains is dwindling owing
to emigration, mainly to South America, especially to the Argentine
Republic. This is largely due to the peasant seeing the comfort and
comparative wealth of his brother peasant in the plain, the proprietor
of vineyard and olive-yard, and of mulberry trees that feed silkworms.
He returns to his Alpine pastures sulky and dissatisfied with his
condition. He is unwilling to change his native, deeply-rooted customs
of farming, that are unscientific and wasteful, incapable maybe of
realizing that he might do better if he adopted newer methods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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