On the Place at Vernet, on Sundays and on the local fête, may be seen Catalan dances about the great elm tree. Unfortunately these dances have lost much of their primitive character since the _cornet-à-piston_ has displaced the old bagpipe. The ancient _bals_, _sardanas_, and _seguedillas_ are danced less frequently every year. The _bal_ is a musical pastoral representing the love-making of a youth and his lass; but this is changing its features, and degenerating into a gallop. The _sardana_ and the _seguedilla_ were ballads, the tunes of which were taken by the _joglars_, or minstrels, for country dances, but to which formerly the performers sang. Notwithstanding the degeneration of the dances, the tourist will see in them some traits of the light-hearted character of the people, will be interested in the traditional music, and be pleased with the quaintness of the scene, like a bit out of an opera. [Illustration: VERNET LES BAINS] The peaks of Canigou may be reached by train either on the north or on the south. The northern line from Perpignan leads to Prades and Villefranche de Conflent for Vernet, whence the visitor will be able to ascend the Canigou by a funicular railway in course of construction. The other way is by the Valespir to Amelie les Bains and Arles-sur-Tech. We will begin with the first, and not halt till we reach Prades, though there is much on the way of interest. The plain of Prades is two and a half miles wide by two long, not very extensive, but enjoying so sweet a climate, and having such a fertile soil, and so well watered, that fruit and vegetables grow there in marvellous abundance. Prades is a pleasant little town, but without much of interest in its public buildings. The church was completed in 1686 in the unattractive style affected at that period. But if Prades itself lacks antiquities, it is not so with the neighbourhood.