Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
“The Prince of Condé, who was present at this conversation, was
overjoyed at my having a chaplain. Poor Poussatin was in a very
tattered condition, and I had no time to provide him with a
proper habit at Perpignan; but giving him a spare livery of one
of the Marshal de Grammont’s servants, I made him get up behind
the prince’s coach, who was like to die with laughing every
time he looked at poor Poussatin’s uncanonical mien in a yellow
livery.
“As soon as we arrived in Paris the story was told to the
queen, who at first expressed some surprise at it; this,
however, did not prevent her from wishing to see my chaplain
dance; for in Spain it is not altogether so strange to see
ecclesiastics dance, as to see them in livery.
“Poussatin performed wonders before the queen; but as he danced
with great sprightliness, she could not bear the savour which
his violent motions diffused through the room; the ladies
likewise began to pray for relief.”
The Eastern Pyrenees have, to my mind, been unduly neglected, and yet
they present scenes of great beauty, and are very easily reached. To
botanists they should be especially attractive. The Val d’Eyne, near
Mont Louis, is known to possess flowers found nowhere else in the
range. The ravine of the Aude is as fine as any in the Hautes Pyrénées.
There are peaks that run up to 10,000 feet, and are covered with snow
all the year, and if the glaciers be insignificant, glaciers are not
essential to beauty. There are more mountain tarns here than elsewhere,
and some of these the largest in the Pyrenees. In ecclesiastical
architecture this is by far the richest portion of the chain, as
the churches have not been wrecked by the Huguenots as in Béarn and
Bigorre. And what is more, there is less rain, there are clearer and
bluer skies. Some of the watering-places are sweet and sheltered nooks
where one can be in summer sunlight early in April, even at the end
of March, sheltered from every wind, and with excursions possible all
about them, and what is more, are not so fashionable, not so savouring
of Paris as Bagnères and Luchon, Cauterez, and Eauxbonnes. In the heats
of summer no more cool and invigorating climate can be found than in
some of those towns and villages on lofty plateaux, like Mont Louis.
As to the Pyrenees in general, many best able to judge and with widest
experience of mountain scenery, prefer them to the Alps of Switzerland
and of Tyrol, so overrun with the tripper and the herds conducted by
Cook. The colouring is richer and more varied, the foliage, the flowers
more abundant; and the peasantry have not lost their simplicity, as
have the Swiss.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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