Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
Sarrance takes its name from the situation--_sarrada_ in Béarnais is
“narrow” and _ance_ is a “passage.” A bridge wreathed with ivy spans
the stream, near a chapel. A terrace shaded with plane trees has its
walls ablaze with snap-dragon, sprouting out of every crevice. From the
chapel a stair leads down to the riverside, where is a niche containing
a statue of the Virgin and Child, indicating the spot where, according
to tradition, the image of N. D. de Sarrance was found.
The old monastery stands on an elevation at the southern extremity
of the village. There is a little grass-grown square with a fountain
in it. On one side of the square are untenanted houses, formerly
guest-rooms of the convent; on the other is the monastery with its
church. This latter is of no interest, as the old church, considered to
be the finest in Béarn, was completely destroyed by the Calvinists. The
tower is absolutely hideous. In a side chapel is a rude black Madonna,
an object of superstitious devotion.
It was here that Marguerite, sister of Francis I and Queen of Navarre,
composed her _Heptameron_. This is what she says in the introduction:--
“On the first day of September, when the baths of the Pyrenees
begin to have their virtue, several persons--some of France,
some of Spain, and others from elsewhere--were united at
Cauterets, the marvellous waters of which have cured sick who
were given up by the doctors. When the party was about to
separate it was found that the floods were out so that there
was no reaching Tarbes. So, having halted awhile at the Abbey
of Saint Savin, the whole company met again at the monastery of
Notre Dame de Sarrance, in Béarn. In order to reach Pau it was
necessary that the bridge over the Gave should be repaired, and
this occupied ten days. In order to relieve the tedium of our
stay in the convent of monks, the company arranged a time-table
for proceedings. In the morning we met in the rooms of the Lady
Oysille, the eldest present. An hour was spent in reading the
sacred Scriptures. Then we heard Mass. At ten o’clock came
dinner; after that every one retired to his or her chamber
about their own affairs. At noon no one failed to go to the
beautiful meadow, by the side of the Gave, where the trees are
so covered with foliage that the sun cannot pierce through nor
take the freshness out of the air. There, seated at our ease,
every one relates tales, either true or invented to amuse, as
did Boccaccio. At four o’clock the merry tales are interrupted
in order that we may pray; and no one fails devoutly to attend
vespers.”
There are certain points to be noted in this. In the first place,
neither here nor anywhere else, does the Queen let fall a word by which
one can see that she appreciated the beauty of the mountain scenery
through which she travelled. Yet the localities for some of her tales
are Cauterets, Sarrance, Odos, and Pau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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