There is little of architectural interest in Mentone. The church, built
in 1619, and added to in 1675, is in the tasteless style of the period,
but tower and spire are effective from a distance. In the church is
preserved a processional cross, the staff of which is formed out of a
Turkish lance taken by Prince Honoré I. of Monaco, in the battle of
Lepanto, 1571. But if Mentone be somewhat deficient in picturesque
features, the same cannot be said of Roquebrune, which for so many
centuries shared its fortunes. It is dominated by the castle of the
Lascaris. At Roquebrune, every year, on the first Sunday in August, the
Mystery of the Passion is represented in a procession that illustrates
the various scenes of the portentous tragedy. It starts from the chapel
of N.D. de la Pansa, on the east side of the little town, a chapel
decorated with frescoes of the fifteenth century. The narrow streets,
passing under vaults, the quaintness of the houses, above all the
superb panorama commanded by Roquebrune, make it a place meriting a
visit.
Still more quaint and picturesque is Castellar, forming a quadrilateral
fortress, planted on a plateau commanding two valleys. It is composed
of three long parallel streets. The exterior of the village or town is
the wall that encloses the place, and the houses thus form the wall,
and look outward only through eyelet holes. Turrets flank the angles.
The chapel of S. Sebastian is romanesque. Here also the Lascaris had
a palace. Castellar stands 1,200 feet above the sea. We can hardly
realise till how late a period the pirates of the Mediterranean were a
scourge to this coast, and forced the natives to build every village
and town in a place not easily accessible, and form of it a fortress.
For many centuries first the Saracens, then the Turks and Moors of
Tunis and Algiers, ravaged this coast. Not so much for gold and
silver—for of this the poor fishermen, shepherds, and tillers of the
soil had none, but to capture slaves. The women were handsome and the
men able-bodied.
“There are still men living at Mentone,” says Dr. Bennet, “who in the
early part of this century (_i.e._ 19th) were seized on the coast
by Moors, and subsequently lived for years as slaves at Algiers and
Tunis.” Indeed, piracy reigned supreme on the Mediterranean until the
year 1816, when Lord Exmouth bombarded Algiers; but it was not finally
stamped out till the conquest of Algiers by the French in 1830. When
Lord Exmouth bombarded Algiers, there were thousands of Christian
slaves, mostly captured on the Riviera, serving in the Algerine
galleys. It was against the sudden descent of these pirates that
the watch towers were erected along the coast, which may be seen at
intervals as far as Genoa.
At Castellar, on the Place de la Mairie, is given on January 20th,
every year, an open-air ball which winds up the series of festivities,
religious and secular, accorded in honour of the patronal saint, S.
Sebastian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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