The old town is built upon a hill that descends gently to the sea,
and whose summit is crowned by a sanctuary. The streets twist about,
are steep, with steps, and paved with bricks or rolled stones. The
old houses elbow one another away to get a little breath, or sustain
themselves from falling by stretching out a flying buttress, each
against its _vis-à-vis_, like tipsy men with linked arms hoping to keep
their feet by mutual support. For all this coast is liable to be shaken
by earthquakes. Diano Marina was the central point of one in February,
1887, that shook down half the village. Baiardo was completely ruined,
and church and houses have all been rebuilt. Numerous lives were lost
on this occasion. This portion of the Riviera, though more sheltered
than the French Côte d’Azur, cannot boast the beauty of mountain
outline. It is only when a river comes down from the Alps that a view
of the snowy peaks is obtained up its course. The rock is all limestone
and conglomerate, and the slopes are terraced and studded with olives.
The general tints have a sameness and dulness that is not found on the
French Riviera. The hills seem to have been enveloped in sail-cloth and
rolled in powdered sage-leaves. San Remo lies in the lap of a crescent
bay, of which Cap Verde on the West and Cap Nera on the East are the
two horns. It faces the South, and a double reef of mountains to the
North arrests the winds from that cold quarter of the heavens. The
shelter thus afforded, the focussing of the sun’s rays on this spot,
and the fertility of the soil, unite to make the vegetation luxuriant
and varied.
By the shore we have orange and lemon groves, the delicious mandarin
orange, and the pomegranate, tropic palms, agaves, and cactus mingled
with cedars. Higher up are olive gardens, chestnuts. “_Tenens media
omnia silvæ_,” the pine woods stretch to the top of the hills that
engirdle San Remo.
M. Reclus observes:—
“Strange to say, trees do not ascend to the same height on these
slopes of the Apennines as on the Alps, though the mean temperature is
far higher; and at an altitude at which the beech still attains noble
proportions in Switzerland we find it here stunted in growth. Larches
are hardly ever seen. The sea is as sterile as the land. There are
neither shallows, islands, nor seaweed, affording shelter for fish.
The cliffs descend precipitously to the sea, and the narrow strips of
beach, extending from promontory to promontory, consist of sand only,
without the admixture of a single shell.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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