“it is hopelessly incurable, the limbs and the faces of the lepers
being gradually eaten away, so that with several, while you look upon
one side of the face, and see it apparently in the bloom of health
and youth, the other has already fallen away and ceased to exist. The
disease is hereditary, having remained in certain families of this
district almost from time immemorial. The members of these families
are prohibited from intermarrying with those of others, or indeed
from marrying at all, unless it is believed that they are free from
any seeds of the fatal inheritance. Sometimes the marriages, when
sanctioned by magistrates and clergy, are contracted in safety, but
often, after a year or two of wedded life, the terrible enemy appears
again, and existence becomes a curse; thus the fearful legacy is
handed on.”—HARE.
The marvel is that plague, leprosy, and typhoid fever are not endemic
in these Ligurian towns. But the winter visitor to San Remo may be at
ease, he will see no lepers in the place now. Should a case occur, it
would at once be removed out of sight.
As already said, San Remo takes its name from S. Romulus, a bishop,
whose festival is on October 13th. Almost nothing is certainly known
of this Bishop of Genoa, who is thought to have died in the year 350.
The story goes that in old age he retired from his charge to a cave or
Barma in the mountains, about five miles from San Remo. Here formerly
was a Benedictine convent, now the very modern building is occupied
by sisters, and the cave of S. Romolo has been converted into a church
with an ugly façade. On the fête day plenty of Sanremois visit the
shrine, some out of devotion, some for the sake of a picnic, and many
from mixed motives.
But the most delightful excursion that may be made from San Remo is to
Lampedusa, above the Taggia. For that no better guide can be had than
Ruffini’s delightful novel, _Dr. Antonio_:—
“A broad, smooth road, opening from Castellaro northwards, and
stretching over the side of the steep mountains in capricious
zig-zags, now conceals, now gives to view, the front of the sanctuary,
shaded by two oaks of enormous dimensions. The Castellini, who made
this road in the sweat of their brows, point it out with pride, and
well they may. They tell you with infinite complacency how every one
of the pebbles with which it is paved was brought from the sea-shore,
those who had mules using them for that purpose, those who had none
bringing up loads on their own backs; how every one, gentleman and
peasant, young and old, women and boys, worked day and night with
no other inducement than the love of the Madonna. The Madonna of
Lampedusa is their creed, their occupation, their pride, their
_carroccio_, their fixed idea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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