The forms of the mountains are rounded, and there are no bold crags;
but it is scooped out into valleys that descend rapidly to the sea and
to little bays; and these scoopings afford shelter from winter winds
and cold, facing the sun, and walled in from every blast.
I know a farm kitchen where a pair of curved settees are drawn about
the fire, and the gap between the settees is closed in the evening
by a green baize curtain. The family sits on a winter night in this
cosy enclosure, the men with their pipes and jugs of cider, the women
knitting and sewing; all chattering, singing, laughing.
Now the southern face of the Maures is precisely such a snuggery formed
by Nature. The mountains curve about to focus the sun’s rays; and the
cork woods, evergreen, kill all glare. Here the date trees ripen their
fruit; here the icy blasts do not shrivel up the eucalyptus, and smite
down the oranges.
The pity is, there are as yet no well-established winter resorts at
Lavandou, Cavalière, and, above all, Cavalaire—places more adapted to
delicate lungs than Hyères, exposed to the currents of wind over the
Crau; than that blow-hole S. Raphael, planted between the cheeks of the
Maures and l’Estérel; than Cannes, where the winds come down from the
snows over the plains of the Siagne; than Nice, with the Paillon on one
side and the Var on the other.
But for the English visitor in these suntraps three things are
lacking—a lawn-tennis ground, a lending library, and an English
chapel. Inevitably the Bay of Cavalaire will, in the future, become a
great refuge for invalids. But that this may become so, above all, what
is needed is a bunch of thorns applied to the tail of the engine that
runs the train along the line from Hyères to S. Raphael by the coast.
From Hyères to that place is just fifty miles, and the quick trains do
it in four, the slow in five hours.
The mountains are mantled in cork wood, save the bald heads of some,
and the making of corks is the main industry of the scattered villages.
The cork tree (_Quercus suber_) retains its leaves for two years. It
has two envelopes of bark, which are quite distinct. The inner cannot
be removed without destroying the life of the tree.
Virgin cork is not of much value; it is employed only for nets, and has
no elasticity.
Only after the third harvest is the cork in perfect condition. The tree
is then about forty years old. It is first skinned (_démasclée_) when
the tree is aged twenty or five-and-twenty. The second peeling takes
place when it is aged thirty or five-and-thirty. The third and best is
collected when the tree is between forty and forty-five years old. The
cork is taken off the trunk from above the ground to a height of about
six feet, leaving the under surface of a coffee colour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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