The Estérel can be visited from Cannes or S. Raphael, but the real
centre for excursions is Agay, an ideal nook for a winter resort. The
Mornes Rougés, a hemicycle of heights, curves about the harbour, and
cuts off every huffle of the Mistral. The Cap Dramont intercepts the
winds from the west. It possesses good hotels, and if a visitor for
the winter could tear himself away from the gaieties of Cannes, he
would spend a month here with perfect comfort, in a warmer climate,
and with any number of delightful excursions to be made from it. Agay
and Anthéor are two settlements of artists, and any one who enjoys
sketching can follow that pursuit in the open air in the Estérel
throughout the winter. Among the many points of interest near Agay
may be mentioned the Roman quarries of blue porphyry, les Caous. Of
these there are three. It was for a long time supposed that the Romans
transported the greyish-blue porphyry spotted with white, found in
their structures at Fréjus and Orange from Egypt, till these quarries
were discovered. In them remain some shafts of columns twenty-two feet
long, roughed out, but never completed. Grooves cut in the rock, and
blocks dropped on the way down to the sea, point out the fact that the
working of these quarries must have been abandoned abruptly. There were
workshops hard by, and numerous remains of pottery and tools have been
picked up. One of the quarries was utilised for columns, another for
blocks and facing-slabs.
The Cap Roux, which stands forth as an advanced sentinel, with feet in
the sea, and starts up 1,360 feet, with its red needles shooting aloft
from the water, and pierced below with caverns, is consecrated to the
memory of S. Honoratus, whose cave, La Sainte Baume, is in the lurid
cliff. Numerous pilgrims were wont to visit it at one time, but now it
is hardly frequented at all, save by tourists. There is a fashion in
saints; and poor old Honoratus is now shouldered into the background,
and thrust into the shade. But he is not a man who should be forgotten.
His is one of the most lovable characters in the calendar. His life
was written by his kinsman and disciple, the great Hilary of Arles,
and it may be thoroughly relied on. He is also spoken of with much
love by another pupil, S. Eucherius of Lyons. But there exists another
Life, which is a tissue of fables, and a late composition, utterly
worthless, one “which,” says Baronius, the Church historian, “cannot be
read without disgust, except by those possessed of iron stomachs, and
wits cankered with the rust of ignorance.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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