Dame Juliana was a haughty woman, and the story is told that she would not go to church except on a carpet. Accordingly, when she went to Slapton Church to pay her devotions, a couple of negro servants proceeded before her unrolling a carpet of red velvet. On the river is Dittisham, and how the salmon do congregate in the pool there! It is a great place for figs and plums, and should be seen when the plum trees are in flower. The view from the parsonage garden, commanding two reaches of the river, is exquisite. But for loveliness of situation, Stoke Gabriel in a lap or creek, facing the sun, shut away from every wind, is the most perfect. A good picturesque modern house has been erected at a point commanding Dartmouth, on the opposite side at Maypool (F. C. Simpson, Esq.), that is a real feature of beauty in the landscape. At Stoke Fleming is a fine brass. The time when Dartmouth may be seen to advantage--I am not speaking now of the river--is at the autumn regatta. Then the quaint old place is _en fête_. The little square that opens on to the quay is devoted to dancing. Lights flare, flags wave, music peals forth, and the Mayor opens the ball in the open air. It is a sight not to be seen elsewhere in England--when viewed from the river it is like a scene on the stage. There is one thing you must do at Dartmouth, because you cannot help doing so--enjoy yourself. But there is one thing you must on no account do--offend a single, though the most insignificant, member of the town. If you do, the whole population is out on you like a hive of angry bees--for in a place so shut in by hills and water everyone is related. Sir Charles McCarthy, as already related, has left his head at Dartmouth. As the visitor leaves by the little steamer to remount the Dart, and looks at the lovely estuary, the hills embowered in trees, the picturesque old town--he feels, perhaps, like myself, as if he had left his heart there. NOTE.--Works on Dartmouth:-- KARKEEK (P. Q.), "Notes on the Early History of Dartmouth," in the _Transactions of the Devonshire Association_, 1880. KARKEEK (P. Q.), "The Shipping and Commerce of Dartmouth in the Reign of Richard II.," _ibid._, 1881. NEWMAN (Dr.), "On the Antiquity of Dartmouth," _ibid._, 1869. CHAPTER XIX. KINGSBRIDGE Kingsbridge a misnomer--The estuary--The church--"Farewell to Kingsbridge"--Numerous screens in the neighbourhood--Portlemouth--S. Onolaus--Master John Schorn--Old houses--The Fortescues--Defence of Salcombe Castle--Lea Priory--Stokenham--Slapton--Bolt Head--The Avon--Oldaport on the Erme--Modbury--The Champernownes--Bigbury--The Owl--S. Anne's Well--Parson Lane--Aveton Gifford--Bishop Stapledon--His murder--Fishing.